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Old 03-01-2018, 08:38 PM   #21
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Great that u got it done. And a great post on how u did it.
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Old 08-07-2018, 08:11 AM   #22
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Where and how are you guys accessing the screws? I am confused. I noticed this on our 2017 Pinnacle.
Pictures please!
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Old 08-07-2018, 09:28 AM   #23
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The screws go through the trim from below. If you look closely at the metal trim piece you will probably see it has a plastic insert. It hides the screws.
I pulled the insert free of the trim just enough to access the screws. I removed the old screws one by one and drilled into the metal frame and used 3" deck screws to secure the trim piece. After I had all the screws in place I tightened them in small increments in sequence until the trim piece looked like it was mostly back where it belonged and replaced the plastic insert and toughed up the sealant.
All of the exterior edges of your unit are probably sealed with the same trim and plastic insert.
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Old 09-26-2018, 04:17 PM   #24
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Originally Posted by RedHorse1 View Post
The screws go through the trim from below. If you look closely at the metal trim piece you will probably see it has a plastic insert. It hides the screws.
I pulled the insert free of the trim just enough to access the screws. I removed the old screws one by one and drilled into the metal frame and used 3" deck screws to secure the trim piece. After I had all the screws in place I tightened them in small increments in sequence until the trim piece looked like it was mostly back where it belonged and replaced the plastic insert and toughed up the sealant.
All of the exterior edges of your unit are probably sealed with the same trim and plastic insert.
Been looking at doing this to mine and am wondering if you had chalking on that center plastic insert or not. Mine has a smear of clear sealant and I'm thinking that the body shop may have done that when they repainted the front cap. If so, does it really need that?
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Old 08-25-2020, 01:58 PM   #25
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I'm having the same issue with my 2018 Eagle 27.5 rlts. trailer is presently at dealer and they are going to try and repair it. If not it may end up going back to the factory for repair.
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Old 09-02-2020, 06:21 AM   #26
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Update. Picked trailer up from dealer. They used a #12x 3 1/2 inch screws. Heading out this weekend so will find out if it holds or not. Fingers crossed.
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Old 09-06-2020, 07:09 PM   #27
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My dealer used 5” screws. I’ve been on a long trip, and a couple short ones...so far so good.
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Old 09-07-2020, 07:56 AM   #28
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I did this to my FW last year. The trim is holding good. New issue now is the decals are starting to bubble at the top of the trim under the bead of caulk. I believe this is caused by the flex in the frame and now the trim is rubbing against the decals pushing them up slightly.
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Old 09-13-2020, 06:28 AM   #29
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Just returned from a week long trip. 2 hours there, 2 hours back other than that the trailer was parked. When we got to our destination I checked and very little separation. When we got home I checked and unfortunately it separated, about a 1/4 inch gap. Not happy. 😡😡
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Old 09-13-2020, 06:19 PM   #30
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Originally Posted by RipinSC View Post
I did this to my FW last year. The trim is holding good. New issue now is the decals are starting to bubble at the top of the trim under the bead of caulk. I believe this is caused by the flex in the frame and now the trim is rubbing against the decals pushing them up slightly.
Mine are bubbling also...I can live with it at this point if it doesnít sag!
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Old 09-15-2020, 03:50 PM   #31
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Just noticed my 2015 is starting to do the same. Thanks for replies. Will add the longer screws.
Be very careful with longer screws. I did it to mine and caught one of the marker light wires. The running lights started acting goofy like lights in front, but not in back, then started popping fuses in my truck. I pulled the marker lights out and saw nothing after checking everything I possibly could. Even bought an Endoscope camera to run it inside to see if I could find the short to no avail. Finally had to take it to the dealer and over $600 later it was fixed.
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