Seneca Frig ventilation problem

[Rustynuts]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

I checked the upper baffle and it is nearly flush with the top of the frig comparent. It is doing nothing to stop the heat from just sitting on top of the frig as it is now. I felt around for the screws holding it in and it would near impossible to take them out without pulling the frig out. Would it be possible to pull/bend the baffle down as it is now to get it to 1/4 inch above the frig top as the manual shows? I'd prefer to avoid having to pull the frig out if possible.

What I did was screw a strip of 1/2" Baltic Birch x 1" wide along the existing baffle back against the wall edge, at the bend. Then I measured the angle and the FULL width length of the cabinet, to seal all the way across and had the pieces bent up at a friends shop. This was to long to get into the cavity in one piece so I split the length into 2 pieces with a 1" overlap in the center. This way I was able to slide them into the cabinet and then through pre-drilled holes, screw it to the plywood strip. Later I even dammed off the left side with 1" duct board and foil taped it off to keep heat from going around the left side of the cabinet. While all this helped temps were still an issue and I realized that the fridge was installed about 6" offset from the vent openings which buried the burner assembly behind the wall and I just dont think it could draft like it was suppose to do. In the end I decided to install the JC Refrigeration compressor unit, especially after seeing pics of several rv's lost to fridge fires and was even more concerned due to out burner unit being inaccessible for any maintenance.

[Armycamper24]

Same issue. Mobile tech cut to give more air flow. Changed fan thermostat to make them run longer. In high temp ( I live in TX). Fans need to run continuously

[kayakkeith]

People are hesitant to pull out the fridge. Most are quite easy. Mine had 6 screws three on each side. I found a crate that was about as high and slid the fridge out on it. Then I was able to take care of the top ventilation and side ventilation properly. Mine was a different Jayco model so it seems many of them are not designed or installed properly for the upper vent flow.

[2018rvs2]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

I've noticed my frig having trouble keeping the temps inside under 40 degrees when it is 90+ degrees outside. I ordered a fan kit to place at the top of the outside vents to push the hot air from aroudn the frig outside. I took off the top vent cover from the side of my RV and this is what I saw. (See picture). Only abotu 3 inches at the top is open for air to escape. The plywood also overlaps the cooling fins on the frig by about an inch.

Has anyone dealt with the problem and have a solution to how they dealt wioth it?

I was thinking of cutting about 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch off the top of the plywood so that it only comes to the bottom of the fins and then install the fans to pull air through the fins and force the air out as best the fans can, seeing as how 2 of the 3 rows of opening in the vent cover will still be blocked by the plywood.

The diagram of the frig from Norcold shows a baffle covering up the fins on the back, but this one overlaps and I'm not sure if it should.

Any ideas or solutions would be greatly appreciated.

Attachment 62730

I have had three norcold 1200 refers and the first two work perfectly but the third in my 2019 rb Seneca barely work when I got it. Problem was
Jayco doesn't know how to follow Norcold's instruction. I redid the baffles and insulation per norcold , helped but not great. I finally put a roof vent in and solved the problem. The refer and the outside vents are not aligned correctly so you will never achieve good results just using the side wall venting.

[jvteach77]

I've got the 2 fans installed and I didn't trim the top board yet, since I decided to just test it as is and then trim if the fans do not correct the issue. I still need to add insulation, but that will have to wait at least a week. We are traveling soon, so I'll try it out and monitor the fridge temps and then decide where to go from here. I'll include a picture when I get it done. Right now the Fridge is running at about 16 degrees in the freezer and about 32 in the Fridge. I have re-installed the bottom vent cover with no effect on the temps or fan run time, which is minimal so far. I'm putting the top cover back on this evening and then I'll recheck everything tomorrow. I suspect the fans will run more once I do, since air flow out of the top vent is restricted by the wood board and air can only get out the top row of vent holes in that panel. A top vent would really be a better choice I think, but I hate the idea of cutting into my roof.

[2018rvs2]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

I've got the 2 fans installed and I didn't trim the top board yet, since I decided to just test it as is and then trim if the fans do not correct the issue. I still need to add insulation, but that will have to wait at least a week. We are traveling soon, so I'll try it out and monitor the fridge temps and then decide where to go from here. I'll include a picture when I get it done. Right now the Fridge is running at about 16 degrees in the freezer and about 32 in the Fridge. I have re-installed the bottom vent cover with no effect on the temps or fan run time, which is minimal so far. I'm putting the top cover back on this evening and then I'll recheck everything tomorrow. I suspect the fans will run more once I do, since air flow out of the top vent is restricted by the wood board and air can only get out the top row of vent holes in that panel. A top vent would really be a better choice I think, but I hate the idea of cutting into my roof.

I had the same experience with my 1200 fridge. I rebafled per norcold spec and got okay results but not what my previous runs had. The way jayco installed the fridge offset you will never get it to cool satisfactory. The top vent was easy to install and baffling per norcold specifications and closing the top side vent worked for me. Good luck!

[jvteach77]

Originally Posted by 2018rvs2

I had the same experience with my 1200 fridge. I rebafled per norcold spec and got okay results but not what my previous runs had. The way jayco installed the fridge offset you will never get it to cool satisfactory. The top vent was easy to install and baffling per norcold specifications and closing the top side vent worked for me. Good luck!

Do you have pictures or the plans for how you installed the top vent?

[2018rvs2]

Originally Posted by jvteach77

Do you have pictures or the plans for how you installed the top vent?

I used a norcold roof vent the part number is in the installation instructions. I did this about 2yrs ago, I aligned up with the refer not the side wall vent. Mine is a 2019 RB and there was no restrictions when I cut the hole. At the time the base was only available in white but the top part is black. You can call me on 530-346-6721 home phone and I can text or email you pictures.

[SloPoke]

On our prior MH, I did the baffling of the fridge through the opening in the roof before I put the new vent back on. We did not have the side vent, but had the poor installation like Jayco has done on many units.

I had a bunch of 1" hard foam (pink) insulation, 1/4" plywood and galvanized Sheet metal that I fabricated the required baffles and insulation to install the fridge per the installation instructions. The gap between the condenser fins and the wall behind the fridge was almost 2" .. .I used the sheet metal to build a baffle to close that gap as the fins got really hot. I used the plywood and foam to close off the top of the fridge and once this was installed... it was amazing how a fridge that sucked before - worked so well after two hours of baffles and a new vent. .

[jvteach77]

The frig did operate better this weekend. It did get up to 40 degrees one time when I had both doors open for about 45 seconds and maintained a temp around 35-36 during the day even with occassionally opening the frig doors. I'm going to wait on doing any more changes until I have more time to test the frig under higher daytime temps.