Anyone use Andersen Weight Distribution Hitch?

[xizowudao]

Hey all,

Anyone here using the Andersen WDH? I've been using it for a few months now and have noticed that every couple trips the brackets on the tongue shift forward, and i have to loosen them and reset them. They tend to keep moving forward incrementally as I tow, and then eventually there will be too many threads coming out of the back of the brackets and then I can't use the socket to tighten anymore, resulting in me needing to reset both brackets on the fly.
Anyone else have this issue? I installed the hitch as per the manual (90-100lb of torque for the bracket nuts/bolts) but I always have this issue.

[MontanaRick]

I have had mine for 3 years, never had this issue. Are the set screws tightened down? I've heard of some people drilling holes for the set screws, that should solve your issue. I remember at least one person who welded.

[xizowudao]

Yeah I actually extra tightened the set screws last time but it still happened, and it actually resulted in a bit of frame crushing . maybe i'll look into drilling a hole for the set screw! thx

[LuckyDuck]

Originally Posted by MontanaRick

I have had mine for 3 years, never had this issue. Are the set screws tightened down? I've heard of some people drilling holes for the set screws, that should solve your issue. I remember at least one person who welded.

X2. Also had ours for almost three years and no slippage. I had my dealer check the torque on the bracket bolts about a year ago. They were still tight. If you don’t think you’ll want to put them on another TT someday, a small spot weld on each would work, as Rick said.

[xizowudao]

I tend to drive down a lot of dirt/forest service roads with lots of potholes and uneven terrain... maybe this might be one of the reasons the brackets get pulled around a lot? Because there would be a lot of uneven tension happening during these roads I guess.

How tight do you guys set your chains whenever you tow? I've typically followed a youtube video released by Andersen that says you should try to tighten the chains approx 4 revolutions on the socket they provide, but sometimes I'm not even able to get 4 revolutions because it just becomes way too tight.

[Midnightmoon]

I haven't had an issue with mine moving either, but you could possibly set your brackets where you want them and add a couple of small tack welds to hold them in place.

[MontanaRick]

I also do lots of rough dirt roads, so I dont think that's it. I'm running mine with 9 threads showing, but this is completely dependent on your bracket to hitch distance, so each setup is potentially different. I seem to recall that, if set up to instructions specs, they suggest starting at 8.

I do find cranking it down while completely hooked up is tight. My approach is to set the threads by counting, then latch the coupler to the hitch ball, use the jack to raise the trailer and tow vehicle until I can easily attach the triangle plate, then let it all back down. This is why I got an electric jack.

[LuckyDuck]

Mine was originally set up by the dealer and had about 8 threads showing as I recall. On a service appointment about a year later, a tech said they needed to be adjusted and cut one link out of the chains. Now, I have about 4 threads showing and the red bushings are not so compressed. Still have it leveled out properly and great front end control. Like Rick, I hitch up, then raise the tongue (hand crank, ugh) until the collar and pin slip on easily. Then lower it.

[Midnightmoon]

I installed mine myself. I ended up cutting 2 full links from both sides of mine.

Every once in a while, you will hear someone state that they couldn't get enough chain tension to move enough weight back to the front axle. I have often wondered if they have their chains too long and bottom out on the tension bolts before they get enough weight transfer.

[ttavasc]

I did the tack welds for the brackets on our 195RB - and this was after drilling for the set screws. It just kept loosening up over time and I got tired of constantly checking and resetting. I also didn't like the fact that the bracket bolts were really digging into the top and bottom of the a-frame as well. After the tack welds it worked flawlessly for the next 5 years till we traded it in.

[xizowudao]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

I did the tack welds for the brackets on our 195RB - and this was after drilling for the set screws. It just kept loosening up over time and I got tired of constantly checking and resetting. I also didn't like the fact that the bracket bolts were really digging into the top and bottom of the a-frame as well. After the tack welds it worked flawlessly for the next 5 years till we traded it in.

This is my exact problem. I’m noticing the bracket bolts are really digging in and crushing the frame. I don’t want to torque tighter because of that . I will try the hole for the set screw first and see if that helps..
Thanks everyone for your help!

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by xizowudao

This is my exact problem. I’m noticing the bracket bolts are really digging in and crushing the frame. I don’t want to torque tighter because of that . I will try the hole for the set screw first and see if that helps..
Thanks everyone for your help!

I did the 2" welds like the instructions say. Mine only "walked a half inch, but I wanted a stable platform to know how many turns I needed each time. I never had an issue after that.

How much are you towing? How much are you trying to move to the front axle?


What size frame and brackets did you purchase? What size frame do you have?

I am confused by your 90-100lbs, as the manual says "we recommend around 75-90 ft-lbs of torque depending on your frame". If you bend the brackets around the frame, your contact will be less.

[xizowudao]

Originally Posted by madmaxmutt

I did the 2" welds like the instructions say. Mine only "walked a half inch, but I wanted a stable platform to know how many turns I needed each time. I never had an issue after that.

How much are you towing? How much are you trying to move to the front axle?


What size frame and brackets did you purchase? What size frame do you have?

I am confused by your 90-100lbs, as the manual says "we recommend around 75-90 ft-lbs of torque depending on your frame". If you bend the brackets around the frame, your contact will be less.

I have 174bh, dry weight 3000lbs and loaded 3750lbs. Tow vehicle is 2016 Tacoma with tow package. Sorry I misspoke regarding the 90-100. I usually torque to 90lbs.
This is the model I got for the hitch : https://parts.pjcanada.com/products/...4-5-6-brackets these are the correct parts to use for my frame. I don’t know the frame size off hand but the hitch was installed by the dealer

[ttavasc]

Originally Posted by xizowudao

This is my exact problem. I’m noticing the bracket bolts are really digging in and crushing the frame. I don’t want to torque tighter because of that . I will try the hole for the set screw first and see if that helps..
Thanks everyone for your help!

IMHO the set screw is not very effective given its location near the top of the outside bracket. All the force is pulling on the bottom of the bracket. If you look at where they show the spot weld its at the bottom of the bracket. I think the set screw would be much more effective if it was located near the bottom of the bracket as well. While the set screw may prevent the top bolt from "walking" forward over time it doesn't do anything for the movement of the bottom bolt that keeps pounding into the bottom of the a-frame. My recommendation would be to just jump right to the spot weld and be done with it.

[xizowudao]

Originally Posted by ttavasc

IMHO the set screw is not very effective given its location near the top of the outside bracket. All the force is pulling on the bottom of the bracket. If you look at where they show the spot weld its at the bottom of the bracket. I think the set screw would be much more effective if it was located near the bottom of the bracket as well. While the set screw may prevent the top bolt from "walking" forward over time it doesn't do anything for the movement of the bottom bolt that keeps pounding into the bottom of the a-frame. My recommendation would be to just jump right to the spot weld and be done with it.

Makes sense. I understand the benefit but am not sure if this will be our long term trailer so I’m hesitant to get it welded on

[madmaxmutt]

Originally Posted by xizowudao

I have 174bh, dry weight 3000lbs and loaded 3750lbs. Tow vehicle is 2016 Tacoma with tow package. Sorry I misspoke regarding the 90-100. I usually torque to 90lbs.

This is the model I got for the hitch : https://parts.pjcanada.com/products/...4-5-6-brackets these are the correct parts to use for my frame. I don’t know the frame size off hand but the hitch was installed by the dealer

That's probably your first problem. Never met a dealer that could or more likely would take the time to do it right.

Usually, as in you take it off between trips? I usually only checked the torque on the once a year.

Are you bolts in the correct holes?

If, I were you I would remove it and install from scratch personally.

In an case, the 2", (not tack) welds will solve this issue.

[RogerR]

My Andersen "walked" every time I traveled the first year. After talking to Andersen I drilled pilot holes for the set screw that has held since. We went over really rough roads in the Rockies a few weeks ago. Cabinets flew open and food everywhere. One of the cabinet frames partially came apart but the hitch stayed in place.

On mine the brackets are at a small angle so the top and bottom are against the frame and the pilot hole keeps it all from moving forward. I am at 6 threads showing on a 3,400 pound actual weight 195RB. I avoid adjusting the screws by using the power jack to get the triangle plate on and off without unscrewing the chains. I replaced the old style hitch body and triangle plate last year for $100 from Andersen direct. Much quieter and easier to hitch up. I also replaced the main pin with one that has a big handle to make it easier to pull out.

[Midnightmoon]

Originally Posted by RogerR

I replaced the old style hitch body and triangle plate last year for $100 from Andersen direct. Much quieter and easier to hitch up. I also replaced the main pin with one that has a big handle to make it easier to pull out.

I have the upgrade kit sitting at home. I am going to install it after this towing season.

[deano]

Like RodgeR my brackets are at an angle also that help bind on the frame. I torqued the bracket bolts to spec's and tightened the set screws . Haven't budged in three years. Been lucky so far on mine. Mine is also set on 8 threads also. Works good

[Jay2504]

I have no experience with any WDH, but have a slight off topic question. How satisfied are the Anderson oweners and would this work on a 24RBS with a 5800 dry weight? Thanks. Jay