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Old 10-27-2020, 06:40 PM   #1
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Test 30 amp service

Is there some way to confirm that you have 30 amp service? And your travel trailer is using it?

We have our Jayco flight plugged into 30 amp service but the freezer is no longer freezing. I’m putting it back on the 120V electrical cord. It’s a brand new travel trailer.

Even the outlets in the trailer appear to work when on 120 volt standard outlet service. I assume the electrical cord is just charging my 12 volt battery on board.
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:06 PM   #2
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Originally Posted by Daddioj View Post
Is there some way to confirm that you have 30 amp service? And your travel trailer is using it?

We have our Jayco flight plugged into 30 amp service but the freezer is no longer freezing. I’m putting it back on the 120V electrical cord. It’s a brand new travel trailer.

Even the outlets in the trailer appear to work when on 120 volt standard outlet service. I assume the electrical cord is just charging my 12 volt battery on board.
There are two services in the RV world. 30 amp and 50 amp. 30 amp is 120 volts. 50 amp is 240 volts. 30 amp is 3 wire. 50 amp is 4 wire. You get the same 120 volts from your 15/20amp shore plug that you would get from a 30 amp plugin a campground. Check the thermistor on the upper right corner of the fridge. it needs to be attached to the 2nd fin from the right. up is coldest. you can draw 30 amp max from a 30 amp service.

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Old 10-27-2020, 07:14 PM   #3
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Originally Posted by Daddioj View Post
We have our Jayco flight plugged into 30 amp service but the freezer is no longer freezing. I’m putting it back on the 120V electrical cord. It’s a brand new travel trailer.
120 volt either works, or it doesn't. The amperage doesn't change, the 30 amp is a maximum number.

If your fridge isn't cooling, could be many other reasons. Is the trailer level? These fridges are level sensitive. Is it running on propane? Make sure you're getting propane flow to it, run a stove burner first, then make sure it's switched to propane on the control panel. The fridge needs a 12 volt signal, is your battery good?

Also, a 30 amp is ONE, 120 volt feed to the panel in the rig.

A 50 amp service is TWO, 120 volt feeds to the panel in the rig.
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Old 10-27-2020, 07:50 PM   #4
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Also, a 30 amp is ONE, 120 volt feed to the panel in the rig.

A 50 amp service is TWO, 120 volt feeds to the panel in the rig.
The simple answer....
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Old 10-27-2020, 08:51 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Daddioj View Post
Is there some way to confirm that you have 30 amp service? And your travel trailer is using it?

We have our Jayco flight plugged into 30 amp service but the freezer is no longer freezing. I’m putting it back on the 120V electrical cord. It’s a brand new travel trailer.

Even the outlets in the trailer appear to work when on 120 volt standard outlet service. I assume the electrical cord is just charging my 12 volt battery on board.
Everything should work the same, whether it's plugged in by the 30 amp cord, or a 20 amp extension cord. They're both the same except for the load capability. Both are 120 volt. If all the outlets and the microwave works with the 30 amp cord plugged in, that side of the service is fine. The converter will charge the battery also. Is the on board battery good? How much time are you giving the refrigerator to cool down? Is the fridge control panel green when turned on electric? Is the water heater getting hot on electric?
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:33 PM   #6
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50 amp is 240 volts.
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Originally Posted by RetiredOne View Post
A 50 amp service is TWO, 120 volt feeds to the panel in the rig.



Here we go again!
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Old 10-27-2020, 09:45 PM   #7
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:53 AM   #8
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Here we go again!
And I'm gonna keep it going as long as I am around. 50 amps is 120/240 volts exactly like the range in your house. If people are gonna work on electricity the need to know ELECTRICITY WORKS OR STAY AWAY FROM IT.
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Old 10-28-2020, 09:56 AM   #9
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Unfortunately, there's some confusion, comparing a residential electrical service to the electrical service in an RV. In a residential setting there are appliances that run on 240 volt, like A/C condensors, ranges, dryers, water heaters, well pumps. Look inside your home panel, and you will see double pole breakers feeding some of these appliances.

In a typical TT or MH, all the appliances are 120 volt.

The only way you can find 240 volt in the typical TT or MH is with a test meter, across the two feed supply wires in the panel. There are no outlets or appliances in the rig where you'll measure 240 volt.

Here is a picture of a typical RV 50 amp service panel:



Fact: if you wanted to install a 240 volt appliance in the rig, it's impossible, because the panel isn't designed to take a double pole breaker to supply the 240 volt. Look at the center, you'll see the two - 120 volt feeds. This is the ONLY place you'll measure 240 volts, across those two feeds. After the two feed the buss bar, 120 volt goes out to the left and right to power the individual 120 volt circuits.

Here it is in another diagram, showing the two separate 120 volts legs feeding the panel. This is why a 50 amp service can actually supply up to 100 total amps to the rig. It's a max 50 amps on EACH leg.

Or, to put it another way, a 30 amp service provides a max of 3600 watts, while a 50 amp service provides a max of 12,000 watts (6000 watts per leg X 2).



So, to conclude, the only way to "see" 240 volts in a 50 amp typical RV service is with an electrical meter, as no appliances run off the 240 volt service. I hope this helps everyone!
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Old 10-28-2020, 11:11 AM   #10
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Here is a picture of a typical RV 50 amp service panel:

And to take this in a totally OT direction, I was struck by the diagram.

My old electrical drafting teacher would have failed me for handing this in. We were expected to draw schematics with minimal wire crosses. I count 5 here. I figure I could do it with just one (a bit of a fun puzzle there).

Okay, back to your regularly scheduled programming.
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Old 10-28-2020, 02:27 PM   #11
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If it is cold where you are and you don't have some heat in the trailer the freezer won't do a lot of freezing. The freezer depends on the fridge to call for cold and if its 40ish in the trailer it just won't run enough to keep things frozen solid up top. Learned this the hard way last winter during a cold snap in October before putting away the camper for winter.
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Old 10-29-2020, 11:39 AM   #12
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Is it possible that the OP is plugged into a 240 volt 3 prong dryer plug or an electrician wired his 30 amp plug to 240 volts ? Jay
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Old 10-30-2020, 01:54 PM   #13
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120 volt either works, or it doesn't...
When I plug in, I take a quick look at the microwave panel. If I have power, the clock display blinks, asking you to set the time. If it's dark, I have no power.
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Old 10-30-2020, 02:08 PM   #14
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When I plug in, I take a quick look at the microwave panel. If I have power, the clock display blinks, asking you to set the time. If it's dark, I have no power.
I keep one of these digital gauges plugged into the outlet on my sink cabinet, so I can instantly peek in the door to see if I have power, and can also see what the exact voltage is.

https://www.amazon.com/Eversame-80-3...s%2C182&sr=8-3
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Old 10-30-2020, 03:28 PM   #15
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I have the same thing and right next to it I have a 12 volt display. I just connected the 12 display to an LED light under the kitchen cabinet. As soon as the 120 volts kick in from my EMS the 12 volt display shows about 13.6 VDC, confirming the converter is working.

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Old 11-04-2020, 01:29 PM   #16
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Be careful saying 50 amp is 240v. It’s two separate 120v legs, a neutral and a ground.
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Old 11-04-2020, 01:37 PM   #17
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Be careful saying 50 amp is 240v. It’s two separate 120v legs, a neutral and a ground.
I don't need to be careful. I am a 50 year Master Electrician and 2 year Electric Inspector. All 240-volt services in the US are made up of two 120 split phase legs. Just like the electric panel at your house and the rage in your kitchen.

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Old 11-04-2020, 01:53 PM   #18
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Wiring Diagram

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There are two services in the RV world. 30 amp and 50 amp. 30 amp is 120 volts. 50 amp is 240 volts. 30 amp is 3 wire. 50 amp is 4 wire. You get the same 120 volts from your 15/20amp shore plug that you would get from a 30 amp plugin a campground. Check the thermistor on the upper right corner of the fridge. it needs to be attached to the 2nd fin from the right. up is coldest. you can draw 30 amp max from a 30 amp service.

Attachment 64990
I guess where I'm not clear is what source my DC Fridge is working from -- from the 12V battery or from the 12V Jumped down through the converter. I don't know how these are wired. I didn't know whether to check the "on-board battery" or the "30amp 120 volt shore power" to determine what the issue was, or what it might have been. Turns out the norcold manual is wrong on the settings. 5 is the warmest setting...1 is the coldest. It says 5 is coldest. I tried the reverse and the freezer got down to 9 degrees and the fridge to 41 degrees F. Problem solved. Frustrating. I'd still like to figure out how they're wired. Any idea? Is there a standard? Is there a source where I can get my trailers wiring diagram?
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Old 11-04-2020, 03:11 PM   #19
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Originally Posted by Daddioj View Post
Is there some way to confirm that you have 30 amp service? And your travel trailer is using it?

We have our Jayco flight plugged into 30 amp service but the freezer is no longer freezing. I’m putting it back on the 120V electrical cord. It’s a brand new travel trailer.

Even the outlets in the trailer appear to work when on 120 volt standard outlet service. I assume the electrical cord is just charging my 12 volt battery on board.
Pull off refrigerator vent panel outside, make sure it’s plugged in! I’ve heard of this one happening! Good luck, and remember LP will work for weeks on one tank if your not running LP furnace until you get it fixed.

Please let us all know what you found.
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Old 11-04-2020, 07:32 PM   #20
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I guess where I'm not clear is what source my DC Fridge is working from -- from the 12V battery or from the 12V Jumped down through the converter. I don't know how these are wired. I didn't know whether to check the "on-board battery" or the "30amp 120 volt shore power" to determine what the issue was, or what it might have been. Turns out the norcold manual is wrong on the settings. 5 is the warmest setting...1 is the coldest. It says 5 is coldest. I tried the reverse and the freezer got down to 9 degrees and the fridge to 41 degrees F. Problem solved. Frustrating. I'd still like to figure out how they're wired. Any idea? Is there a standard? Is there a source where I can get my trailers wiring diagram?
Don't understand that statement. The converter supplies 12-volt power to the 12-volt fuses and charges the battery. Shore power and the generator powers 120 volts to the Converter. 12-volt power is supplied by the battery and/or the converter. Converter only works on 120 volts. 12 volt supplied by the battery when there is no shore or gen power.
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