Mods to 377 RLBH?

[Bookemdanno]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Ok, great.



But I need you to conduct a scientific based experiement.



So you’ll need to first drink copious amounts of adult beverages, since that’s how I typically use the beds in my campers.

I couldn’t agree with you more!


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[tonylaccetti]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Now that's a list! [emoji1]
How did you wire TVs to the inverter? I'd like to wire the outside receptacle to the inverter to power a compressor for airing up a tire while on the road

my inverter came wired to everything already. I have had no issues running anything off the inverter including the outside TV. However, I have not tried to run the AC off the battery and I would assume that the AC units would not be wired to the inverter.


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[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Cannon

How does every bodies hot water work in their 377. Our last camper was Montana w/10 gal and seem to have no problem. DW and I could take back to back showers with no problem. DW always run out in this one even if i've not taken one. Just wondering if this is normal? Maybe my last camper had 12 gal. can't remember.

Our family just did three generous back to back showers getting ready for dinner, 10 year old daughter went first, I went last. I stayed in until hot ran out and I had at least 10 min of super hot water.

Both electric and propane on. 85f outside temp.

Low outside temp will definitely reduce amount of hot available, noticed that throughout Feb.

Not regretting the fact that I didn’t get the tankless heater after all.

[Kahoneys]

LOVE LOVE LOVE our tankless. I'll never go back to tanked system.

[Cannon]

Maybe the weather's not helping. We've only had his one since Oct. and every trips been cold. This weekend's been in the 40's and very windy. I see how it does when the weather warms up.

[jloco]

Originally Posted by Lowmiler

Not regretting the fact that I didn’t get the tankless heater after all.

I’ve never had issues with my 10 gallon Atwood either. Plenty of hot water.


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[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Finally had a free weekend with some nice weather so i decided to finally do the Lippert shock install. I’ve had these in the box waiting to be installed for several months.


Wheel removed


Bracket install. Luckily the screws from the other side didn’t interfere and behind it was a support brace screwed to the frame. Also not pictured is replacing the u bolts and axle plate


Shock installed.

Now the fun part. I put my tire back on and check underneath

Instructions say 2-1/2” minimum clearance needed between tire and frame. Mine was 2-5/8”.
So, take it all apart and I decided to drill a new hole in the bracket

This is after drilling and reinstall


All in all not too bad. Should take about 30 minutes per wheel if no clearance issues. If so, add another 10-15 per wheel







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You beat me to it, Tom. I've been wanting shocks on my 377 for a long time. Not having them most likely cost a broken sidewall bracket on the chill drawer (right side) in our residential fridge. I may be to blame on this one... I carry a lot of beer in the lower bins as it's colder down there. I can't remember if I had several loaded in that one.

I'm very interested to hear how your new shocks perform. But dang, that reposition doesn't look but 1/4" gap between shock and tire. Certainly, the sidewall will tilt inward when turning and make contact with the shock. But how much, is the question. Also curious to know how much lateral tilt the shock may have when going over uneven roads? How close will it come to the frame? A go-pro camera mounted in there would be the way to tell what all is happening. Another bucket list birthday gift?

So how did the clearance turn out on the other 3 tires? One other thing, I noticed your Sailun tread shoulder now looks like mine, cupped, which I reported last year. I swear, over time, the middle ribs will have to wear down and flatten out eventually.

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Kahoneys

LOVE LOVE LOVE our tankless. I'll never go back to tanked system.

We love our Truma AquaGo Comfort model in our 2017.1 model 377. We swapped ours out the first week of delivery, then sold the factory unit on craigslist. Which tankless model do you go with? We only had one glitch when a sensor went out on Aug 21, 2017, the day of the total solar eclipse while we were in Wyoming. Luckily, on the way back, we were able to stop in Elkhart RV park, near Truma headquarters and they came out to fix it. So were without hot water for 4 days, but used the RV campground showers as an alternative. Still, after that, I'm not giving it up.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Dskyward

You beat me to it, Tom. I've been wanting shocks on my 377 for a long time. Not having them most likely cost a broken sidewall bracket on the chill drawer (right side) in our residential fridge. I may be to blame on this one... I carry a lot of beer in the lower bins as it's colder down there. I can't remember if I had several loaded in that one.



I'm very interested to hear how your new shocks perform. But dang, that reposition doesn't look but 1/4" gap between shock and tire. Certainly, the sidewall will tilt inward when turning and make contact with the shock. But how much, is the question. Also curious to know how much lateral tilt the shock may have when going over uneven roads? How close will it come to the frame? A go-pro camera mounted in there would be the way to tell what all is happening. Another bucket list birthday gift?



So how did the clearance turn out on the other 3 tires? One other thing, I noticed your Sailun tread shoulder now looks like mine, cupped, which I reported last year. I swear, over time, the middle ribs will have to wear down and flatten out eventually.

All the shocks touched the tires in the original mounting holes. Luckily for me, my son already has a go pro and I plan on using it to view how much movement the shocks have under normal driving and sharp turning.

I’ve already decided that if they touch too much, I’m going to try to “flip” them by having them attach to the inside of the frame. That way, I can attach everything on the opposite side and use all the holes that were drilled. Of course I’ll need to remove a small section of the underbelly for each shock.

Funny thing is the instructions clearly state a 2-1/2” minimum gap is required between frame and tire. Mine has 2-5/8” so I thought I’d be good. Like I said, I’m going to do a test pull and report back. Really, I should be able to tell the minute I turn out of my driveway as I need to make a sharp right turn


Edit: yes I did notice my Sailun tires with “uneven” wear on the inside edge. Wonder if inflation pressures have something to do with it? When I ran at 110 psi, they wore evenly. Last 6 months or so I’ve been running 100 psi.

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[Lowmiler]

Originally Posted by Kahoneys

LOVE LOVE LOVE our tankless. I'll never go back to tanked system.

While I loved the idea of an endless hot shower, my concern was about supply pressure on the Girard units. Reports were that they needed at least 50psi to fire off properly. Where I am now, near the beach, we only have 35psi.

Have you run into issues with low pressure?

I know a work around is to fill the fresh water tank and pressurize with the pump, but since the 10gal heater works so well, especially with mild outdoor weather, I don’t need the hassle.

If I were full timing, I’d do tankless, to deal with winter temps. I’d pony up for a Truma, though...

In a year or so, I bet Truma is the tankless Jayco will be supplying for 5ers, it’s on their Class As and some of their Class Cs now.

[Kahoneys]

I am really not sure what the name brand is on the unit. I'll have to look it up when I get back out into the RV. We seem to only have issues at the kitchen faucet when we have low pressure but otherwise it is hot water all day long.

[Slurugger]

any tips or tricks to getting the bunk room slider back on track? It appears the fabric has stretched allowing the door a little back and forth play and it snapped loose on the way home. The bottom is now jammed behind the bottom track so it's going to take some wrangling to fix.

As to thoughts on a long term fix since the fabric snap is stretched? Was thinking some adjusting sliding door rod or shower rod?

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tensions-Aiev...ble+fridge+rod

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Slurugger

any tips or tricks to getting the bunk room slider back on track? It appears the fabric has stretched allowing the door a little back and forth play and it snapped loose on the way home. The bottom is now jammed behind the bottom track so it's going to take some wrangling to fix.

As to thoughts on a long term fix since the fabric snap is stretched? Was thinking some adjusting sliding door rod or shower rod?

Something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Tensions-Aiev...ble+fridge+rod

I adjusted both nylon straps to hold the doors better, but, to no avail. So we removed the two doors last year as they kept falling down off the track (3 occasions) and were just not worth the 26 lb weight each, even so replacing all the hanger screws with longer ones, they still fall down or jump the track during transit when bad bumps are encountered. We replaced with a grey black-out curtain from Walmart. Hemmed up the bottom with a fabric superglue. We simply hung using the existing 4 track pins.

[Magnolia Tom]

Maybe I’ve been lucky but I’ve had no problems with my bunk room doors. Not to mention I have 3 kids that aren’t always the most careful or gentle when opening or closing them


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[Dskyward]

And here is our Truma AquaGo Comfort tankless water heater. We had it installed 4 days after delivery up in Elkhart. We had to get the oversized panel frame as the 377 came with a 10 gallon WH vs 6 gal, so it was additional cost, about $1700 total. The Comfort model was $1200 by itself. For large families camping in this model, it's nice not to run out of hot water. We still have the factory shower head and today I measured its max flow at 1.2 gpm with 50 psi water pressure at the source, while the factory kitchen faucet gets 1.5 gpm. The heater still works at .4 gpm, per Truma's specs, while other models can't quite make that low flow. Another plus is we don't tow another 83 lbs of water everywhere and use extra propane when idle. Or, turning a switch on to heat 30 min ahead of showers would get old for me trying to conserve.

I will eventually get it painted dark brown to match the old one.

[Dskyward]

Originally Posted by Magnolia Tom

Maybe I’ve been lucky but I’ve had no problems with my bunk room doors. Not to mention I have 3 kids that aren’t always the most careful or gentle when opening or closing them


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I think your lucky Tom, so if it ain't broke don't fix it. Therell be plenty of items to fix, panels, loose trim, etc. For instance, a couple weeks ago, in AZ, while changing the water filter I discovered Jayco used double sided sticky tape to attach the narrow wooden baseplate of the access panel. It came loose and wouldn't stick no more. So I tried to screw it down with a couple 2" deck screws about a foot apart. Both spun in place as I was hitting some hard metal. I broke two drill bits trying to make a pilot hole in each. I was nowhere near the I beam. There was a floor screw right next to one nearest the door, so I ended up unscrewing it and using a longer metal screw to then attach the baseplate. So it goes to show you what workarounds you'll uncover as time goes by.

[Kahoneys]

We put in a solid core door in the bunk room. Quieter for when she is in there and were watching the TV in the livingroom or playing cards at the table.

[Magnolia Tom]

Kahoneys

Looks good! Did you stain it or did you get it prefinished?




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[Kahoneys]

Prefinished. I had to do some major cutting to get it to the proper length and width and that is another benifit of the solid core. Didn't have panels hanging without support when I cut the top and bottom. I had to get the squares in the facia centered due to my OCD. We are extreemly happy with it.

[Magnolia Tom]

Originally Posted by Kahoneys

Prefinished. I had to do some major cutting to get it to the proper length and width and that is another benifit of the solid core. Didn't have panels hanging without support when I cut the top and bottom. I had to get the squares in the facia centered due to my OCD. We are extreemly happy with it.

Did you start with a 2-0 door? I’ve always thought about swapping out the bedroom, bath and bunk doors with something similar but was a little nervous about the weak door framing. How did you attach it to the jamb? Simply screw the hinges onto the existing jamb


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