Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

[Big1]

I look at the floor plan on the Vision XL 36C and I love it, the dealer since we work out the email situation haven't got back with me, I do know that the salesman said that they were putting in the plumbing for the W&D so I'm hope that they need to do that before they get back with me.

[AussieBrit]

Mark - where did you pick up 12V power for the switchbank you installed on the left side of your doghouse? I'd like to power my Garmin and toad remote brake signal device.

Your post:

Completed the front console additions/insulation
To complete the Console area modifications, I insulated the inside and floor of the console (using Dyna Hoodliner) and stuffed fiberglass in any voids I could find in & under the dash (wherever I could reach).

On the left side of the console (pic 1 & 2) I cut out and mounted a master 12v accessory panel that had a standard size cig lighter 12v socket, 2 USB 5v sockets, 5 rocker 12v switches with "on" indicator lights and a digital voltmeter.

I used 3 of the switches...
I attached the main 12v power to the radio to sw1 (since it was always hot & on from Jayco)
I attached the main 12v power to the Garmin RV 890 GPS (pic 3 front)
I attached the main 12v power to the Rear View Safety (RVS) Quad View Backup/Side mirrors Camera 7" monitor (pic 3 back)
Since I was adding the RVS monitor, I removed the factory PAC Camera Switch (pic 4). By removing the PAC camera switch, I also am not sending any video to the Sony 3000 radio. The new RVS monitor now receives 3 camera inputs (back, left & ride sides), and 3 +12v triggers from the reverse lights and the left/right turn signals). In normal mode, the RVS monitor displays all 3 camera videos simultaneously (it has the ability to display 4 cameras if you'd want to add a front camera) and when a +12v trigger is detected, that camera video fills the entire screen. The color video quality is high resolution and much better that the factory video on the radio screen. The switch between video is very fast, near real time.

Finally, if you look closely at pic 3 (click on it to enlarge the picture), you'll see I mounted the "hands free" mic, from the radio for mobile phone use, to the top of the steering column from the lower left side where the factory mounted it.

Still to come is changing out the 50" living room TV to an LG OLED 4K Smart TV, adding a dedicated DVD player to the rear bedroom TV and a sound bar with remote subwoofer to both TVs. In addition, I'll be installing MobileMustHave.com Ultimate Road Warrior Bundle with MobileMark external antenna Link: I have a few other odds and ends like adding Vents to the Generator door to help reduce heat, propane fire pit, and maybe a table top to replace the small "cup holder" style table that installs between the two front seats that came from the factory with something a little larger that I can use for a desk.

Thx Mark

[Brent5059]

Hi mark,
I noticed you have a roof access ladder on yours. Mine came without one and the factory says it was not offered for this year 34G. Is that aftermarket installed?

[mkassab]

I believe Jayco is wrong as mine came from the factory that way

Mark

[Brent5059]

I made a mistake. Mine is 2020. Not sure if that should make a difference since its basically the same unit.

[Dopalgangr]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Jagiven... good question.
Several points:

• I have a ss steel vinyl coated cable locking the portable solar to the rig's frame.
• I didn't want to mount or drill anymore on the roof
• The system and mounting frame I made allow me to change the angle to map to the Sun's angle for Summer and Winter extremes
• I never know where I'll park and therefore where South would be relative to the motorhome
• In case I park in a shaded area, I can move the panel around to gain access to the Sun
• It would be hard to forget as I also have to remove tire covers, remove SS Wool from exhaust pipes and remove SunShades from front glass.

Hope that helps,
Mark

Just curious, why have it outside at all? I leave mine in the windshield and it plugs into the cigarette adapter on the left side of steering wheel, this is always on and connects straight to battery so the solar will keep it afloat while staying inside my rig away from the elements and sticky fingers.

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Dopalgangr

Just curious, why have it outside at all? I leave mine in the windshield and it plugs into the cigarette adapter on the left side of steering wheel, this is always on and connects straight to battery so the solar will keep it afloat while staying inside my rig away from the elements and sticky fingers.

Your statement "why have it outside... just leave in the windshield" Simple answer, one doesn't always have a way to park with the windshield facing south.

Mark

[Dopalgangr]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Your statement "why have it outside... just leave in the windshield" Simple answer, one doesn't always have a way to park with the windshield facing south.

Mark

True, true, nice to see your still on here, while I have your attention on that combo washer/dryer did you cut a hole and vent it to the outside or does it not require that? Can you pass on the make/model if I missed it?

Also check under your bed, I don't know if Jayco did anything to fix this issue, here was my solution https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post796563

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Dopalgangr

True, true, nice to see your still on here, while I have your attention on that combo washer/dryer did you cut a hole and vent it to the outside or does it not require that? Can you pass on the make/model if I missed it?

Also check under your bed, I don't know if Jayco did anything to fix this issue, here was my solution https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post796563

No vent needed. I don't recall the make, but I suspect if you look close at the pictures, you see the brand name on the front of the washer. I think that brand only had one model.

Mark

[Alante31V]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Your statement "why have it outside... just leave in the windshield" Simple answer, one doesn't always have a way to park with the windshield facing south.

Mark

You have the AMP L start or such and allow that charger to do both house/chassis battery?

[AZ Winters]

Please add me to your 2020 34G upgrades. Thanks!

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by AZ Winters

Please add me to your 2020 34G upgrades. Thanks!

You have to hit the "subscribe" button once you're in the thread

[ianpemb]

Hi Mark, did you ever total the cost of all of your mods. If so could you share that with us?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by ianpemb

Hi Mark, did you ever total the cost of all of your mods. If so could you share that with us?

No, not really, but I'd think well over $10k to $12k

Mark

[thepaulsri]

Mine is a Mach1 that only had the cool-only control box installed. I purchased the heat & cool control board and the add-on heater. But my question now is about connecting my thermostat and the fact that I also have a propane heater. The thermostat's heat control is connected to control my propane furnace. Now I need to decide how to also control the add-on heater for the Coleman Mach1. Should I plan to run both at the same time and control them both with
the same thermostat and can that even be done safely. Or do I need a separate control. Or would I WANT a separate control? Thoughts?

[OscarD]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Have you ever been annoyed by the A/C lack of efficiency and noise? Well I just did something about it. It was totally new to me but it's a great design that was executed and manufactured well, yet so simple you'd wonder why this wasn't standard?.

It's call RV Airflow Systems... link: https://rv-airflow.myshopify.com/

I only discover it while watching some YouTube videos, in particular from Changing Lanes.... this couple have some good videos.

Anyway, I bought two AirFlow systems for my Coleman Mach 15 (front unit with Heat Pump) and Mach 3 (rear unit A/C only). The same kit does both models. It's very easy to install. However, once you take the internal covers off, you'll see how sloppy the factory install was, e.g., duct tape with gaps, holes and tears, my front unit was not centered on the roof opening and rotated a few degrees. But once the internal cover is removed and you then remove the 4 machine screw lag bolts from the internal mounting ring/hold down, you can easily center the top A/C unit (as it's just sitting on the roof with a rubber gasket and no chalk).

Once I had the covers off, I discovered a label inside each A/C unit that said you can add an auxiliary 1500w supplemental heating element that installs in the return air side of the unit. (see first pict below).... I found the aux heat elements online for about $70 each and ordered two (that will be a separate thread when I install them.... it's a simple single screw and plug in wiring.)

Now for the install of the AirFlow system.... Part 1 of 2 (I need two parts (threads) not because it's hard to install, but I have more than the 5 picture limit per thread)

As I said above, I first had to repair all the duct tape tears/gaps/holes (the second picture shows gaps/tears on both the left and right sides... which meant some of the air on the right (positive air pressure) was also going between the roof and the ceiling and the return air side on the left was sucking air (negative air pressure) from between the roof & ceiling).

Removing the internal "stuff" is easy... 4 screws remove the outside cover, 4 more screws remove the air diverter/deflector and lastly pull out the "pressure fit" rigid insulation board that "attempts" to separate the return air side from the output air side. The last two parts I just mentioned (i.e., rigid insulation board and the air diverter will not be needed or reinstalled). Note: on the removed rigid insulation board "divider"..... mine was not vertical, i.e., it was tilted and not sealing the return side from the output side. Either they weren't installed correctly or most likely, just moved/tilted from the force of the A/C being on and/or driving down the road from the movement vibrations/road bumps. Regardless, by this divider NOT sealing that means the output air, in large part, just got sucked out and went up the return air side and never going into the coach!

Once I cleaned up and installed new foil duct tape (pic 3), you then install the two kit supplied side air duct inserts (the kit only has 3 parts, the main center section that is the heart of the AirFlow system and the 2 side air duct inserts). I had to trim one end of each insert to fit the factory duct openings. The insets also have a foam weather strip on their backside that serve two purposes: 1) help seal the air and 2) creates a pressure seal between the inserts face and the center section (ridge foam) that you insert between the side duct inserts. The next to the last picture is one duct insert in the coach's air duct and the last picture shows the center section side I'm holding (the output side of air from the unit goes into the top and split out to the left/right ducts) and one of the duct insert is setting below the center section.

On to thread 2 of 2

Mark

Hi,
I would like to install this product on my
2022 Jayco Precept 34G.... both AC are Colman Mach... these guys offered 3 Coleman Mach products, so I'm not sure which one to buy.

Thank you Mkassab for your help

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by OscarD

Hi,
I would like to install this product on my
2022 Jayco Precept 34G.... both AC are Colman Mach... these guys offered 3 Coleman Mach products, so I'm not sure which one to buy.

Thank you Mkassab for your help

Call Colman tech support with your model and ser #s..... they can tell you.

Mark

[fanceydave]

Love the Crossfire idea. Will have to get that. Curious as to the cushion for the shower skylight. I would like to put something there to keep as light from the vent shines right on my face as I lay in bed. Is there a place you ordered them ready made as opposed to just fabricating something ones self?

[Larryjcarter]

Originally Posted by mkassab

I'm starting this thread to share all the changes, additions/upgrades to my 2021 Precept 34G. It will be long running thread over the coming months as I do each project. Questions, comments are most welcome. I'm taking some time off during this holiday period before it gets too cold. With the good weather, I'll focus on outside "stuff" first. Some things I'm doing, in no particular order are solar panels, the addition of a separate Go Power IC-2000 inverter/charger/transfer switch in addition to the Janco systems 1000 watt inverter and transfer sw. Six addition batteries, dedicated rear camera screen to show all cameras at once, Air Pressure monitors for the coach, car tow dolly and the car, CrossFire dual air pressure equalizers, Garmin RV GPS, suspension additions, washer/dryer, electrical monitors, propane expansion, level pro install, Sun Screens, vent covers, rear mud flap, car haul dolly, sewer line PVC holder, Sound Bar/sub-woofer, surge protector, generator side door vents, bath fan upgrade, and so much more.

So, if your interested in all this.... hit the subscribe button so you get all the notifications.

Welcome aboard, Mark

I have a 2019 Precept 34G and it is now in a RV Dealership trying to figure out how to get access to the long RT side slide travel mechanism to replace and do repair/maintenance on rollers displaced and those that are loose.
Based on what they are telling me, this is a major fix and entails removing the whole slide to get access to slide gear mechanism. Do you have any impute to this issue?

[Parrott]

Originally Posted by Larryjcarter

I have a 2019 Precept 34G and it is now in a RV Dealership trying to figure out how to get access to the long RT side slide travel mechanism to replace and do repair/maintenance on rollers displaced and those that are loose.
Based on what they are telling me, this is a major fix and entails removing the whole slide to get access to slide gear mechanism. Do you have any impute to this issue?

You can search the forum. There has been lots of discussion on these rollers. I have accessed all the rollers (16 of them)on my Precept 31 UL. I double nutted most of them and tightened others. They are a real pain and with some ingenuity they can be replaced and tightened up without removing the slide. Attached pic of double nutted roller. I used 2 thin nuts to replace the original nut.