Mark's Upgrades to a 2021 Precept 34G

[Foretm]

I would bet on that as well... I welcome it, to me its a sign that its working as designed. Seriously can't wait...

[Jagiven]

Last picture in post 53, the solar battery maintainer/charger.

Just wondering why you have it placed on the ground? Couple thoughts, one you might forget about it, and drive off. Two some wondering foul sees it and walks off with it.

I would think doing a permanent installation the roof, would let it do its job, and it is a forget it after that.

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

Last picture in post 53, the solar battery maintainer/charger.

Just wondering why you have it placed on the ground? Couple thoughts, one you might forget about it, and drive off. Two some wondering foul sees it and walks off with it.

I would think doing a permanent installation the roof, would let it do its job, and it is a forget it after that.

Jagiven... good question.
Several points:

• I have a ss steel vinyl coated cable locking the portable solar to the rig's frame.
• I didn't want to mount or drill anymore on the roof
• The system and mounting frame I made allow me to change the angle to map to the Sun's angle for Summer and Winter extremes
• I never know where I'll park and therefore where South would be relative to the motorhome
• In case I park in a shaded area, I can move the panel around to gain access to the Sun
• It would be hard to forget as I also have to remove tire covers, remove SS Wool from exhaust pipes and remove SunShades from front glass.

Hope that helps,
Mark

[mkassab]

Well, I finished up the wiring, mounted the stone shield and spare tire mounted to the dolly. I then drove the Mini up on the dolly for a trial run and all well. I must say this Tow Dolly is built extremely well.... very heavy steel, the fenders are thick "football" helmet like type plastic with steel bracing and the dolly is hot dipped galvanized frame for rust prevention.
Pic 1 shows the Mini on the dolly
Pic 2 shows the female 4-pin tail / brake / turn signal plug I installed to the left/driver's door side of the dolly. But, I needed the "right" turn/brake light input for this to work..... so, I had to tap into/splice in the green right brake/turn and run the right turn/brake green wire from the right side, along the frame and up behind the left turn/brake light housing. If you look closely at pic 2, you'll see the green wire coming out from under the left wheel caddie, up along the brake line to the channel in the left fender.

I'm making a custom set of tail/brake lights for the TOAD that I'll mount on the back of the rear seat headrest posts that will clearly shine through the rear window of the Mini's convertible roof. I had to order some mounting hardware. Once I complete the tail light build, I'll post what and how I did it.

Mark

[mkassab]

Well, I finally put together the tail lights (brakes, tail and turn) I "custom" made for the the 2019 Mini CooperS TOAD. I can temporary mount them to the back of the rear seat head rest posts using a strip of wood and large thumb nuts that protrude from the back to the front. Hopefully the pics show this well. The tail/brake/ground wires I wrapped in a wire loom. The wire will run to the front driver's door and attach to the left rear tail light of the dolly where I spliced in a female 4-pin plug.

Pic 1.... front view of the assembled TOAD tail lights. If you look closely against the flat black board the tail lights are mounted to.... you'll see 2 large black thumb nuts. These will draw tight the backboard to the headrest metal post between them.

Pic 2.... back view of the tail light assembly. The brown board is the backboard and the 2 bolts the thumb nuts draw tight.

Pic 3.... looking through the highly reflective rear window of the Mini CooperS convertible top you can see the TOAD tail light assembly against the back head rest posts.

Pic 4.... in this picture, I lifted the rear part of the convertible top to clearly show the light assembly and the headrest posts (note: I did not actually mount it, therefore the reason you don't see the thumb nuts.)

Pic 5.... once the car is on the dolly, I'd run the tail light assembly wire bundle through the open driver's door (close the door on the wires) and then attach to the 4-pin plug I spliced in the left rear dolly tail light.

Now, the Dolly/TOAD is completed.

Up next, mounting all the electric/solar/batter monitor panels in the bathroom wall.

So, stay tuned,
Mark

[mkassab]

As noted earlier in this thread on completing the Solar, Batteries, and Electrical monitoring panels, today was the day. To bring all up to speed, I ran the wires from under the master bed, through the wire-way on the right side of the bed, against the outside wall, along the floor, through/under the small nightstand and into/under the bathroom cabinet/sink area. I ran a total of 4 multi-wire cables that will connect:

1. Go Power IC-2000 Inverter/converter to an IC Series remote monitor/control panel
2. Victron Battery Bank monitor/control panel (1 each for each of the two battery banks)
3. Precision EMS/Surge Protector remote monitor/control panel

I chose to mount these in the bathroom on the wall that is opposite of the hallway mounted Jayco Master panel (pic3) for the generator, tank fill indicators, battery charge indicator, water pump, slides in/out, water heater propane/electric and the tank heaters.

In Pic 4, you see the wire-way coming from the bedroom into and under the bath cabinet. Take notice of the angled wall mounted cover along the floor and behind the toilet.... behind this cover, all the wires to the Jayco Master Panel, thermostat, light switches run. So I removed this angled wall panel to run my 4 cables.

In Pics 1 and 2, you see the holes I cut out for 3 of the 4 monitors.... as the 4th is surface mounted. I used a straighten out coat hanger to fish up the 4 cables from where they entered the wall behind the toilet angled cover. Since the round Victron monitors had a threaded ring to tighten and mount the Victorn from inside the wall, I did those first so I could put my hand in through the sq opening above them to tighten the mounting ring down tight. The 2 switches you see to the left of the monitors are the bath light and fan switch. And all the wires you see in the wall are to the Jayco Master panel, thermostat and light switches on the other side of the wall.

Finally, in pic 2, the mounted panel on the top is the remote for the Go Power IC-2000 inverter, the 2 Victrons for battery banks 1 & 2 and the bottom panel is to the Precision EMS/Surge protector.

Up next, remove the doghouse and prep for gadget installs (e.g., Garmin RV GPS, RVS 7" 4 camera monitor, master power panel) and the heat and sound proofing/insulation using Dynamat and under hoodliner. Once this is done, I'll also insulate (sound/heat) the driver and passenger floors.

So stay tune, more coming.
Thanks Mark

[mkassab]

Can anyone identify these wires I found laying inside the center console on the floor. Both pair are the same.... blue/green striped and white wires? (pic 1)

Also while in the center console, I removed the radio/monitor, and mounting front panel. Pic 2 & 3 shows the camera switch for the backup camera and the left/right side mirror cameras. I'll be removing this during my 7" RVS camera monitor installation. I'll document all that in a new thread.

Again, any help/ideas on the 2 pair of wires?
thx Mark

[Foretm]

With the spade connector, looks like it may be a speaker wire of some sort. Hard to know for sure, maybe ask Jayco CS for the wiring diagram. It's helped me determine wires before.

[mkassab]

Well, I removed the doghouse last night to start my heat and sound insulation. My Precept 34G was built ~Sept/Oct 2020. And, to my surprise, Jayco must have started to add formed dense styrofoam under the doghouse to help shield the heat (this is my assumption?). Reading all the other posts/threads on heat issues, recalls, spark plug wire heat related issues, etc... this was the last thing I expected. So I took pictures to share not only the black foam, but the spark plug wires to see if these are upgrades or the standard wires so many are having issues with. Any comments/questions welcome.

Thx Mark

Pic 1 shows the trim piece that ties the dog house to the upper console
Pic 2 shows the underside of the dog house with for formed dense black styrofoam that fits the doghouse and the top of the engine
Pic 3 shows the opening to the engine without the doghouse
Pic 4 shows the metal jacketed spark plug wires... are these new or typical?
Pic 5 shows some wire and hose wrap heat shielding... is this new or typical?

[Sredbeard]

I noticed you have a ladder on your 34g, could you please let me know where you got it and if it was difficult to install. Thans Steve

[Jagiven]

No help with those 2 pair of 12volt wires. Recommend contacting Jayco with your vin number, and ask for the 12volt schematic.

Have you put a volt meter to them?

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Sredbeard

I noticed you have a ladder on your 34g, could you please let me know where you got it and if it was difficult to install. Thans Steve

Hi Steve,
Our 2021 Precept 34G came with the ladder installed. You could order one from Jayco via a Jayco dealer or, I'd assume, any RV dealer could get a 3rd party ladder and install.
What year is your Precept? Make sure it shouldn't have come with a ladder, e.g,. maybe they forgot to install it?
Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Jagiven

No help with those 2 pair of 12volt wires. Recommend contacting Jayco with your vin number, and ask for the 12volt schematic.

Have you put a volt meter to them?

Yes, I did put a multimeter on them. White is Ground and Blue/Green wire is hot +12V only with the ignition on. I have no idea of the fuse amp size or what the pair was for? I have an email into Jayco for the answer.

thx Mark

[Foretm]

In that case, I assume you have a 12v receptacle for accessories (cigarette lighter) or powered USBs for charging phones? Maybe these are extra for added options around 12v power and accessories.

[mkassab]

OK... so I went ahead and installed DynaMat Xtreme and DynaMat Hoodliner even though the formed/molded high density black styrofoam was there... I mean I have it all apart and more heat and sound insulation can't hurt... right?
Before starting, I cleaned both the plastic doghouse and the black styrofoam, dried to help ensure best adhesion of the Dynamat products.

Pic 1 With Black Styrofoam removed from the plastic doghouse (upside down) I applied my first piece of Dynamat Xtreme (showing with just the one piece so you could see the original doghouse before covering it all up).
Pic 2 Dynamat Xtreme install completed.
Pic 3 black styrofoam reinstalled
Pic 4 cut and installed Dynamat Hoodliner (1/2" foil backed foam with peel & stick)
Pic 5 doghouse flip back to upright position. I cut another piece of hoodliner to install on top of the doghouse that's inside the center console. I'll show pics of that once it's completed.

All in all, this was pretty easy and I think it will make a noticable difference once I also complete the driver's and passenger's side floors.

Inside the console, in addition to the piece of Dyna Hoodliner on top of the doghouse, I'll apply the Hoodliner to the sides of the console walls and stuff some R-19 fiberglass insulation in every open place in the dash and console I can find/reach.

Lastly, for the driver/passenger floors, I'll install Dynamat Xtreme first to the vinyl flooring, then DynaLiner (1/2" closed cell rubber (heat and sound), then DEI Boom Mat and finally topped with DynaDeck (3/8") (Looks like black automotive carpet like)

Thx Mark

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Foretm

In that case, I assume you have a 12v receptacle for accessories (cigarette lighter) or powered USBs for charging phones? Maybe these are extra for added options around 12v power and accessories.

That's what I'm hoping.... but want to be sure since it's ignition on only and I don't want to put a load on them until I know what they were for and what amp the fuse(s) is.

Mark

[ShouldBSailing]

We just picked out 34G up 2 weeks ago / Built late Oct 2020. Did our first long trip and the doghouse stayed cool the entire trip. The insulation is awesome. I did note the floors below the driver and passenger seat let a lot of heat through - but didn't realize until we got to site and tooky shoes off - so maybe not a big deal - but thinking to put some of this year shielding under there as it's easy access above the wheels.

Originally Posted by mkassab

Well, I removed the doghouse last night to start my heat and sound insulation. My Precept 34G was built ~Sept/Oct 2020. And, to my surprise, Jayco must have started to add formed dense styrofoam under the doghouse to help shield the heat (this is my assumption?). Reading all the other posts/threads on heat issues, recalls, spark plug wire heat related issues, etc... this was the last thing I expected. So I took pictures to share not only the black foam, but the spark plug wires to see if these are upgrades or the standard wires so many are having issues with. Any comments/questions welcome.

Thx Mark

Pic 1 shows the trim piece that ties the dog house to the upper console
Pic 2 shows the underside of the dog house with for formed dense black styrofoam that fits the doghouse and the top of the engine
Pic 3 shows the opening to the engine without the doghouse
Pic 4 shows the metal jacketed spark plug wires... are these new or typical?
Pic 5 shows some wire and hose wrap heat shielding... is this new or typical?

[Jagiven]

Originally Posted by mkassab

Yes, I did put a multimeter on them. White is Ground and Blue/Green wire is hot +12V only with the ignition on. I have no idea of the fuse amp size or what the pair was for? I have an email into Jayco for the answer.

thx Mark

That tells me it is getting power out the the engine compartment fuse box. So Jayco, probably won't be much help.

Worse case, short it out, see what else does not work, then check the engine compartment fuse box, and the owner's manual.

I'm not farmilar with the F53 chassis, some accessory fuses, have a dual fuse position or optional relay, so it can be set to be hot all the time or only when the engine is on.

[Rustynuts]

Mark, great mods, I noticed you have your EMS monitor surface mounted our pics. I made up some plates to flush mount these monitor for myself and friends and I have a couple left over....message me if you are interested in one.

[mkassab]

Originally Posted by Rustynuts

Mark, great mods, I noticed you have your EMS monitor surface mounted our pics. I made up some plates to flush mount these monitor for myself and friends and I have a couple left over....message me if you are interested in one.

Brian, just sent you a PM.

thx Mark