Eagle HT Separation Issue Update

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

Actually I just found mine is steel as I thought. I drilled a hole out and took a magnet to the filings on the bit, and it was in fact steel.

That's interesting

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

That's interesting

Seems to me I remember reading in one of the threads about this issue someone said his was steel too. Oh well, it is what it is and steel should hold those screws very well.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

Seems to me I remember reading in one of the threads about this issue someone said his was steel too. Oh well, it is what it is and steel should hold those screws very well.

I'm certain I read that also and I believe that unit was quite a few years old. Like you said, it is what it is.

[ciollika]

Are people having success getting through the bottom and top of the square tubing with 3" screws? I can find 3" #10 self tapping screws with pan heads, but not 3.5". I will definitely pilot drill with 1/8" bit, but I really like the idea of a self tapper clearing out the hole before the threads run through.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by ciollika

Are people having success getting through the bottom and top of the square tubing with 3" screws? I can find 3" #10 self tapping screws with pan heads, but not 3.5". I will definitely pilot drill with 1/8" bit, but I really like the idea of a self tapper clearing out the hole before the threads run through.

If you use an 1/8" pilot bit, you will need #8 screws, and yes, 3" will work at least it did on mine with a steel frame where both layers of metal are very close together, around 1/4" apart. Some have aluminum framing which may be further apart between the metal.

The best thing to do is mark your bit as you hit the second layer of metal. That will show you how long your screws should be. I showed a pic in a previous page where I snapped the head off a #10 screw using an 1/8" bit. #8 screws work perfectly.

[chas111]

I put 3" screws in mine to get back from Florida without it separating more back last fall. My dealer put 5" screws on each side and recaulked. I have pulled it twice (short distance) and it seems to be holding so far.

[ciollika]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

If you use an 1/8" pilot bit, you will need #8 screws...

Even with self-tappers?

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

I snapped the head off a #10 screw using an 1/8" bit. #8 screws work perfectly.

Were you using self-tappers or just regular sheet metal screws? Stainless or non?

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by ciollika

Even with self-tappers?




Were you using self-tappers or just regular sheet metal screws? Stainless or non?

The #10's I had were considered "piecing" screws not true self tappers as I couldn't find any. The first one went in and the second one snapped and that's when I decided to go to 8's as I didn't want to snap any more heads off. If you have an aluminum frame you should be fine as it is much softer than steel. After drilling a hole, I took a magnet to the filings on the bit which confirmed it was steel.

[SeventyGTX]

Well, my whoa's continue with this project, which should be a piece of cake. I ordered #8 3" long square drive screws from an ebay seller. Ran the 1/8" bit through both layers of steel frame, and the first one snapped the head off as soon as it met resistance..........grrrr.

Fortunately, it was easy to pull the broke stud out with vise-grips. So I pulled the one #8 phillips head screw out of the hole a did a few days ago. Tried putting it in the hole that just snapped the head, and it did the typical phillips head thing where it was starting to round out the inside then snapped the head when I pushed harder on it. That is why I went to square drive. Tried another of the new square drives and it snapped as well. So now I'm in a dilemma what to do. I sincerely believe my entire problems stem from trying to tap these into steel instead of aluminum.

These screws I just got were advertised as self-tappers, but they clearly are not. In fact I can't find any true self tappers in this size. It's like I need a super long tap and just put long machine screws in it. This is getting insane. Time for a beer.

[RipinSC]

#8 screws are too small. I used #10 on my Eagle FW and even broke a few of them. I bought some #12 which worked pretty good but you still have to be careful. My Eagle is steel so you need to screw in about a half turn and then back it out just like you are taping a threaded hole into steel. A # 10 screw actually measures about 3/16 dia. You can not try to drive it into the steel frame with a screw gun when using 3” long screws. You will snap every one. Your pilot hole for a #10 screw should be 5/32 to start with and if you still cant get the screw in go to an 11/64 dia. Don’t buy the universal wood / metal construction screws, they will snap every times. Buy some good 3” long sheet metal screws.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

#8 screws are too small. I used #10 on my Eagle FW and even broke a few of them. I bought some #12 which worked pretty good but you still have to be careful. My Eagle is steel so you need to screw in about a half turn and then back it out just like you are taping a threaded hole into steel. A # 10 screw actually measures about 3/16 dia. You can not try to drive it into the steel frame with a screw gun when using 3” long screws. You will snap every one. Your pilot hole for a #10 screw should be 5/32 to start with and if you still cant get the screw in go to an 11/64 dia. Don’t buy the universal wood / metal construction screws, they will snap every times. Buy some good 3” long sheet metal screws.

Thanks for the advice. The ones I just got off ebay were supposedly stainless, sheet metal screws #8 size. The heads snapped off so quick it was laughable even under low speed. Except I didn't laugh. 1/8" pilot should have been fine and it actually worked on one of the #10 3" roofing(?) screws I tried, but the second snapped the head off. That is when I decided to go with #8. They were great as they had a washer made on them w/rubber gasket.

Looks like I will be buying more screws and another long bit. I agree #10's would be better if not just for the reason the heads won't snap off so easily. Thanks again for your help, I will order a long 5/32 bit and probably get more of those hex head #10's that worked once. The slightly larger bit should help.

[RoadrunnerII]

One other thing to do... Lube the screw end up. Silicone will work or a drop of light oil Even Vasaline. Its like running a thread tap. You gotta lube it!
Btdt Got the t shirt the broken knuckles too!

RoadrunnerII

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by RoadrunnerII

One other thing to do... Lube the screw end up. Silicone will work or a drop of light oil Even Vasaline. Its like running a thread tap. You gotta lube it!
Btdt Got the t shirt the broken knuckles too!

RoadrunnerII

Will do, thanks!

[RipinSC]

A standard 5/32 drill should be long enough. That is what I used. On my Eagle the frame was about 2 1/2 inches up. I just put the bit into the chuck about 1/4 inch. If you can find a longer bit, it will be easier to manage.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

A standard 5/32 drill should be long enough. That is what I used. On my Eagle the frame was about 2 1/2 inches up. I just put the bit into the chuck about 1/4 inch. If you can find a longer bit, it will be easier to manage.

I have two 5/32 bits, both are about 3 1/8" long. I will give them a try tomorrow. Otherwise I will be at the mercy of Amazon, who says I won't get a long one until May 1st since it's not a priority virus related item. Although I do have that 6" long 1/8" bit I could use as a pilot, then run the 5/32 through. Thanks again for all your help.

[SeventyGTX]

Put one of my standard length (3") 5/32 bits in the drill about a half inch into the chuck and it went through both layers of steel easily........Yay! No need to order an extra long one. Then I went to the local Ace and got a box of #10 sheeter screws with 1/4" heads, seal washers and 3" long. Put some axle grease on the tip of one and carefully ran it in. It was still tough and a couple times I thought for sure it was going to snap the head, but it didn't. Definitely stronger than the #8's I had tried.

Some of the screws I will have to remove the washers because the factory holes were off center and with washers up against the edge prevents the vinyl strip from going back on properly. I only did one as it's cold and windy out right now. But it looks like I finally got something that will work after flushing away nearly $25 on wrong size screws and washers that I can't return.

One thing that has me somewhat concerned is half the original screws I pulled out of the upper section of trim were rusty. All were in the forward section of the overhang. Not the heads, just the threads were rusty. Which makes me realize water got in there. There is no sign of damage anyhere, and I haven't pulled the screws out of the drivers side yet. I will definitely reseal the trim with clear silicone when done.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

One thing that has me somewhat concerned is half the original screws I pulled out of the upper section of trim were rusty. All were in the forward section of the overhang. Not the heads, just the threads were rusty. Which makes me realize water got in there. There is no sign of damage anyhere, and I haven't pulled the screws out of the drivers side yet. I will definitely reseal the trim with clear silicone when done.

SeventyGTX, I had the same issue with rust. Mine was leaking at the termination point on top … were the roof material terminates to the trim against the front cap. I resealed that on both sides and also resealed the vertical trim for the cap.

[SeventyGTX]

Originally Posted by triplebvalp

SeventyGTX, I had the same issue with rust. Mine was leaking at the termination point on top … were the roof material terminates to the trim against the front cap. I resealed that on both sides and also resealed the vertical trim for the cap.

Thanks triple, I will check up there for sure when the weather gets better. It is really disappointing how these things are built for the price of them, and not just Jayco's. Our previous Forest River Wildcat had it's share of issues I had to deal with as well.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by SeventyGTX

Thanks triple, I will check up there for sure when the weather gets better. It is really disappointing how these things are built for the price of them, and not just Jayco's. Our previous Forest River Wildcat had it's share of issues I had to deal with as well.

I have been over our new Montana High Country with an extremely fine toothed comb and have not found anything wrong that has cropped up. It's only 2-1/2 weeks old and hasn't been on its obligatory "check out camping" trip yet ( (dang Covid-19 nonsense ). I am certain that I will run into issues that have not shown up … crossing my fingers and toes :-)

[RoadrunnerII]

I had a leak on the transition seam on our 2017 321rsts in the first year. Three pin holes just enough to spoil the cabinet in the back of closet. I found the leak self leveling over it. Then it got fixed right. I used eternabond tape around everything poking thru the roof other than the AC unit.
That self levelling crap is for the birds.
Eternabond been on for almost a year. No issues anywhere

RoadrunnerII