Eagle HT Separation Issue Update

[Puddle Pirate]

Had the same issue with my unit--2017 321 RSTS, just did the fix-- the screw on the left was what was in it, up threw into a piece of 3/4 plywood some of the the screw threads went right threw the plywood and my trim was always moving on me, so the fix was done with the screw on the left-heavy duty mental and wood screw combo with a self tapper end, 4 inches long and you will need a 6 inch drill bit get a couple--when you start drilling and you get threw the plywood, you will hit steel, just go slow until you get threw it--you will be setting this 4 inch screw all the way up and what a diff it will be.

Here's a head shot of the diff in the size of the screw heads, I never twisted off a head. But did lose a couple of drill bits

When drilling these pilot holes I did manage to cut a wire to my marker lights, it was on the drivers side, took the marker light off and pulled the wires out fixed it, tested the lights -good to go-- heres a picture.

Hope this helps someone--

[AJC]

Does anyone know is this really a structural issue where towing it could cause an accident or is it some what of a cosmetic issue? Reason I ask is if it isn't under warranty I will do it myself. But if it's structural and covered under warranty I want Jayco to do it. Although I am not keen on the service folks at RV dealers. I always seem to be able to fix things better than the service department and faster.

[IceOnFire]

Since I am out of warranty, I took my unit to a non-Jayo authorized service center for a 2nd opinion after my dealership failed to address the issues previously. Their feedback from initial assessment, this could be a structural related issue. It would require taking apart the top layer of the RV to diagnose which could require a couple thousand $ just to assess. They suggested contacting Jayco & Lippert for further guidance. Jayco suggested to take the unit to our dealership & perform measurements on the frame. We did that last Tuesday and waiting to hear back. I don't have much faith in my dealership fixing this issue as the separation has caused other issues that I won't be able to fix myself.

You can reference my case: https://www.jaycoowners.com/forums/f...tml#post922115

[BlueRidge1]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

#8 screws are too small. I used #10 on my Eagle FW and even broke a few of them. I bought some #12 which worked pretty good but you still have to be careful. My Eagle is steel so you need to screw in about a half turn and then back it out just like you are taping a threaded hole into steel. A # 10 screw actually measures about 3/16 dia. You can not try to drive it into the steel frame with a screw gun when using 3” long screws. You will snap every one. Your pilot hole for a #10 screw should be 5/32 to start with and if you still cant get the screw in go to an 11/64 dia. Don’t buy the universal wood / metal construction screws, they will snap every times. Buy some good 3” long sheet metal screws.

Are the repairs still holding up? I have a similar issue and dealer wants 400ish to fix it. I would rather do it myself if the self repairs are holding up well.

[RipinSC]

Originally Posted by BlueRidge1

Are the repairs still holding up? I have a similar issue and dealer wants 400ish to fix it. I would rather do it myself if the self repairs are holding up well.

Well, yes the screws are holding. The other issue that I have now is you still get some flex in this area which now causes the decals to bubble up at the edge of the molding. It also breaks the seal on the caulk slightly when hooked up. It is as good a it will get and looks much nicer than the trim sagging down.

[RipinSC]

decals bubble when trim flexes.

[eow]

I cut my decals back 1/8” from the trim prior to recaulking and do not get the lifting of the decal edge.

[chas111]

Mine has been fixed by dealer also. So far so good. My decals bubbled also.

[IceOnFire]

My unit has been fixed by the dealer a couple weeks ago. Jayco denied approval to fix the issue, even though I have taken it to the dealership 3 times for the same issue. Luckily my dealer covered all costs for repairs. 250 miles towing so far and no issues. I am also seeing a little bubbling of the decals which I've asked the dealer to clean up and re-seal. I am hoping this issue has been resolved for good. 🤞🏼

[Cincinnati Kid]

Originally Posted by RipinSC

Attachment 68128decals bubble when trim flexes.

Ours looked exactly like that when Jayco fixed it early last year. Now there is slight motion when hooked up to truck. It closes up again when unhooked. Definitely some frame issues at play, and I am working with our dealership and Jayco to make sure it is properly dealt with when we have our final warranty appointment in March. Because I have this issue, the sidewall crack, lp tank shelf welds broken, and major failure of frame and crossmember at the axles, I'm asking Jayco to consider looking at scrapping this unit and starting over with a new one.
We'll be relying on our dealership to inspect, measure and report all these issues to Jayco for consideration.
We'll see- I told Jayco that we love our 5th wheel, but no longer have faith that it can be repaired properly.

[BlueRidge1]

Thanks for all the quick replies, I wish I had a Jayco dealer in Greenville SC.

[Cincinnati Kid]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

Thank you for the detailed explanation and the diagrams. In Feb. if this year, we had Jayco factory do the 1st repair, (long screws from the outside). It's holding so far, but I would feel much better about it if we had repair # 2. If it has to be disassembled and redone, I would really like to see regular bolts with Nylok nuts, to really prevent future movement.,
But like I said, zero new movement so far.

Now we have new movement. Repair is failing. Still in warranty- barely. Appointment in March to look at multiple frame issues, including this.

[R&D]

Originally Posted by AJC

Does anyone know is this really a structural issue where towing it could cause an accident or is it some what of a cosmetic issue? Reason I ask is if it isn't under warranty I will do it myself. But if it's structural and covered under warranty I want Jayco to do it. Although I am not keen on the service folks at RV dealers. I always seem to be able to fix things better than the service department and faster.

I agree Jayco should be covering the repair. My 2017 27.5RLTS was out of warranty and the response I received from the Warranty Advisor was: "I have touched base with management again regarding your concern and was advised that due to the issue both not being noted within the warranty period and being... beyond the warranty expiration that Jayco respectfully declines participation"

The repair completed on mine seems to be holding up just fine. Since the repair, I have taken the 5th wheel on multiple round trips between Ohio and Colorado/Arizona.

If it helps, I used "Star Type F Screws 1/4-20x3" (floorboard screws) directly screwed through the holes in the wall support in to the Aluminum tubing in the bottom of the wall.. PDF attached Wall Repair.pdf

[Puddle Pirate]

Originally Posted by Cincinnati Kid

Now we have new movement. Repair is failing. Still in warranty- barely. Appointment in March to look at multiple frame issues, including this.

I have had the same problems, and here is my fix that has worked so far, no movement at all-period.

These are the cross over screws I found and used to fix the issue, in one of the photos you will see what was in there, all wrong--what I did do before the larger screws were installed is predrill the current holes to fit the new screws and it has worked-in the photos you will see the size comparison

[eow]

Originally Posted by Puddle Pirate

..... so the fix was done with the screw on the left-heavy duty mental and wood screw combo with a self tapper end, 4 inches long and you will need a 6 inch drill bit get a couple--when you start drilling and you get threw the plywood, you will hit steel, just go slow until you get threw it--you will be setting this 4 inch screw all the way up and what a diff it will be.

Where did you buy the 4" long screws? Do you have a link?

[Puddle Pirate]

These came from a local specialty nut and bolt shop, I used at least 30 of them, replaced ever one of the factory ones, these come in diff lengths 15 per side, pull your vinyl trim off, and count what you have in, or the holes for them, you will need a 6 inch drill bit also to pre drill the holes--- if you cannot find them let me know and I can get them for ya and the drill bit's all from the same shop and we can work out getting them mailed up there to ya. Hopefully u have pay - pal, I have taken my unit out and it has not moved at all since I did this repair. Make sure you have a couple of brand new no. 2 Philip bits on hand and a really good drill. Also a I would suggest to have at least 3 of these drill bits on hand (suggest 4) they are 3/16 6 inch harden steel, were I got these screws they have these on hand also.

[eow]

Thanks for the additional info and offer. I will check locally.

[triplebvalp]

Originally Posted by eow

Thanks for the additional info and offer. I will check locally.

EWO, I was able to source similar screws from my local ACE Hardware.

[Cincinnati Kid]

But we should all (Our 5th wheel has the same issue, repaired twice, separating again) remember that this fix is a temporary patch, at best. The frame is still twisting, and we're just moving the cracking farther down the chassis. In cars and trucks, the frame and chassis are isolated by rubber.

[Smitty0]

looking at a 2020 30.5MBOK. Was this ever found to be a structural issue? or just flex popping ficad screws?