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Old 03-06-2016, 06:34 AM   #11
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Camper_Bob any thoughts on those shanks?
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:33 AM   #12
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OP here,

So have been doing a little more looking, appreciate all the insight. Would welcome any more on the info below, just a warning, its pretty detailed.

I have found on other boards and thru looking myself you have to be careful with the word "drop" a Curt or other brand with an 8" drop is probably a little more than an 8" drop on the shank itself, but once you add the equalizer head onto it (which each manufacturers head is likely pretty different here?), it doesn't drop the hitch head down nearly that far. I think what you need to do is look here 2 for 6K - 14K Models : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store and find a shank with similar total vertical length and look at that shanks total drop/rise numbers as well as hole positioning compared to the 3rd party shank, thats probably pretty close to what your ball will actually drop

So, based on my old specs on my 29BHDS (which for the other poster I would expect is almost identical to the 28BHS as far as ball height is concerned, I have come up with i need a ball drop of 6.25. I am basing this purely on I know that
  • My trailer towed level, perhaps just slightly nose up before
  • I know the hitch height installed in my old truck(18" to top of ball mount)
  • I have the same measurement off my new truck (22.5" to top of ball mount) or 4.5" higher

My factory equalizer comes with their 3" drop, 7" rise model. I have 1 more hole available so I can drop down an additional 1.25" to 21.25" (thats the spacing between the holes) still leaving me 3.25" deficient, so I need 2.25 more, or a 6.25" drop equalizer branded hitch. the "6" drop" hitch is actually close to 11" total drop from the top to the bottom of the shank. You can see this info at 2 for 6K - 14K Models : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store. The biggest hitch made for the 2.5" opening seems to only be a "6" equalizer" drop after adding the head on, I think realistically I probably need equalizer model 90-02-4400 or similar offering and may have to use the sleeve as I cant find anything that long in a 2.5 shaft, which I really was not wanting to do for that little extra wiggle. The sleeve shouldn't cause a huge problem, I have read in some manufacturer tow manuals (it was the F250 manual if memory serves) that it reduced the tongue weight/tow capacity but the RAM towing guide doesn't mention anything about it and etrailer.com indicates it shouldn't if your manual doesn't indicate it does.

My big decision I guess is how much do I care about that .25", it will likely raise the nose if I go with a 6" drop, but there are options available similar to equalizer 90-02-4900, I would have to be at the very bottom and probably be a little nose high. After reviewing the equalizer manual (https://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf), I may actually want to be at 6 Washers since I probably wont be at 90% of the tongue weight of the ram, and the head positioning seems to error on the side of dropping the hitch head more than raising it if there isn't a hole available at the perfect hitch height. I really don't want to loosen my bars at all and lose sway control, if anything based on how my other rig towed they may need to be a little tighter which would just potentially reduce any rear-end squat I may have on this new 2500.
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:01 AM   #13
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OP here,

So have been doing a little more looking, appreciate all the insight. Would welcome any more on the info below, just a warning, its pretty detailed.

I have found on other boards and thru looking myself you have to be careful with the word "drop" a Curt or other brand with an 8" drop is probably a little more than an 8" drop on the shank itself, but once you add the equalizer head onto it (which each manufacturers head is likely pretty different here?), it doesn't drop the hitch head down nearly that far. I think what you need to do is look here 2 for 6K - 14K Models : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store and find a shank with similar total vertical length and look at that shanks total drop/rise numbers as well as hole positioning compared to the 3rd party shank, thats probably pretty close to what your ball will actually drop

So, based on my old specs on my 29BHDS (which for the other poster I would expect is almost identical to the 28BHS as far as ball height is concerned, I have come up with i need a ball drop of 6.25. I am basing this purely on I know that
  • My trailer towed level, perhaps just slightly nose up before
  • I know the hitch height installed in my old truck(18" to top of ball mount)
  • I have the same measurement off my new truck (22.5" to top of ball mount) or 4.5" higher

My factory equalizer comes with their 3" drop, 7" rise model. I have 1 more hole available so I can drop down an additional 1.25" to 21.25" (thats the spacing between the holes) still leaving me 3.25" deficient, so I need 2.25 more, or a 6.25" drop equalizer branded hitch. the "6" drop" hitch is actually close to 11" total drop from the top to the bottom of the shank. You can see this info at 2 for 6K - 14K Models : Equal-i-zer Hitch Store. The biggest hitch made for the 2.5" opening seems to only be a "6" equalizer" drop after adding the head on, I think realistically I probably need equalizer model 90-02-4400 or similar offering and may have to use the sleeve as I cant find anything that long in a 2.5 shaft, which I really was not wanting to do for that little extra wiggle. The sleeve shouldn't cause a huge problem, I have read in some manufacturer tow manuals (it was the F250 manual if memory serves) that it reduced the tongue weight/tow capacity but the RAM towing guide doesn't mention anything about it and etrailer.com indicates it shouldn't if your manual doesn't indicate it does.

My big decision I guess is how much do I care about that .25", it will likely raise the nose if I go with a 6" drop, but there are options available similar to equalizer 90-02-4900, I would have to be at the very bottom and probably be a little nose high. After reviewing the equalizer manual (https://www.equalizerhitch.com/pdf/EQOwnersManual.pdf), I may actually want to be at 6 Washers since I probably wont be at 90% of the tongue weight of the ram, and the head positioning seems to error on the side of dropping the hitch head more than raising it if there isn't a hole available at the perfect hitch height. I really don't want to loosen my bars at all and lose sway control, if anything based on how my other rig towed they may need to be a little tighter which would just potentially reduce any rear-end squat I may have on this new 2500.
Have you checked out Etrailer and the adjustable model I mentioned? You don't think it will line up correctly even with an adjustable 8" drop?
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Old 03-06-2016, 10:21 AM   #14
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Have you checked out Etrailer and the adjustable model I mentioned? You don't think it will line up correctly even with an adjustable 8" drop?
borninblue,

I assume you are talking about this one http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...TALBM6825.html.

I did, that looks like a fantastic general towing addition. I may definitely get one of those for the truck but for the camper (and probably other heavy trailers like a bobcat etc) you can easily exceed the 1000lb tongue weight if you fill the water tanks (mine is between 1200 and 1300lbs when wet) and that isn't a standard shank it would appear from the photo, so you cant put the equalizer weight distribution head on it.
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:29 PM   #15
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borninblue,

I assume you are talking about this one http://www.etrailer.com/Ball-Mounts/...TALBM6825.html.

I did, that looks like a fantastic general towing addition. I may definitely get one of those for the truck but for the camper (and probably other heavy trailers like a bobcat etc) you can easily exceed the 1000lb tongue weight if you fill the water tanks (mine is between 1200 and 1300lbs when wet) and that isn't a standard shank it would appear from the photo, so you cant put the equalizer weight distribution head on it.
That shows how new I am to Rving. I did not even realize orbthink about the tongue weight or the compatibility with the equalizer weight distribution head. So basically none of those would work? I would I would prefer an all aluminum one, with the longer shank so I can open up the tailgate. Any thoughts or suggestions?
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Old 03-06-2016, 12:48 PM   #16
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Well that depends on the trailer ... I can open my tailgate with my trailer hooked up and if you have to have that much drop I don't know how much outward extension you would need to be able to open your tailgate. So much is guess work at best until you actually hook up to it and see where you stand but that makes it hard to be ready to pick it up and take it home without buying the wd and shank before you get there unless you know someone that has something close you can use for your pickup and then do your measuring and research and get the one that works just right for you
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Old 03-06-2016, 02:46 PM   #17
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I believe I found the one we need with the equalizer http://http://www.etrailer.com/Acces...0-02-4400.html

What you guys think?
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Old 03-06-2016, 09:12 PM   #18
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I believe I found the one we need with the equalizer http://http://www.etrailer.com/Acces...0-02-4400.html

What you guys think?
I think thats likely the one, will still have to use the reducer sleeve if you have a 3/4 ton truck.

You mentioned Aluminum also, I am wondering honestly if aluminum is strong enough. These are solid hunks of 2" square steel, not hollow like may of your lower capacity tow bars you get at uhaul, walmart, etc. My current equalizer head on a smaller bar probably weighs close to 100lbs. Getting the longer bar to deal with the extra drop on the ram, its just gonna get heavier.

Do some searching on this site, but there are comments on here about the tailgate issue. A few tips I gathered from reading (although I haven't tried, for the record my OLD truck the gate did not open, new one hasn't towed yet, but I expect the same issue)

1.) make sure you don't drive with it down, you can turn a corner or hit a dip and that jack post will come into your tailgate and really ruin your day
2.) you may be able to turn the jack control/light assembly around (assuming you have electric) and get a little extra clearance. I think its just a set screw you loosen.
3.) another alternative is to get a different tailgate, they make them for 5th wheel/goosenecks that have a dip in the middle, they should go down around the jack post fine. I don't think its that hard to swap them out for the camping season, most tailgates just lift out from one side and pop right off, if you have a camera there will be a wire harness. Search google for 5th wheel tailgate. There are of course some downsides, like if you have a covered bed, etc
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:48 AM   #19
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I think thats likely the one, will still have to use the reducer sleeve if you have a 3/4 ton truck.

You mentioned Aluminum also, I am wondering honestly if aluminum is strong enough. These are solid hunks of 2" square steel, not hollow like may of your lower capacity tow bars you get at uhaul, walmart, etc. My current equalizer head on a smaller bar probably weighs close to 100lbs. Getting the longer bar to deal with the extra drop on the ram, its just gonna get heavier.

Do some searching on this site, but there are comments on here about the tailgate issue. A few tips I gathered from reading (although I haven't tried, for the record my OLD truck the gate did not open, new one hasn't towed yet, but I expect the same issue)

1.) make sure you don't drive with it down, you can turn a corner or hit a dip and that jack post will come into your tailgate and really ruin your day
2.) you may be able to turn the jack control/light assembly around (assuming you have electric) and get a little extra clearance. I think its just a set screw you loosen.
3.) another alternative is to get a different tailgate, they make them for 5th wheel/goosenecks that have a dip in the middle, they should go down around the jack post fine. I don't think its that hard to swap them out for the camping season, most tailgates just lift out from one side and pop right off, if you have a camera there will be a wire harness. Search google for 5th wheel tailgate. There are of course some downsides, like if you have a covered bed, etc
Great information thank you! I have seen those tailgates and would prefer not to go that route. I agree now thinking it over about the aluminum, it will probably not hold up with the tongue weight.

I do not like the idea of using a reducer, but I guess with these trucks there are not many options.

You talk about a "smaller" Equalizer head and a longer bar to deal with the drop. Do I need to request longer bars from my dealer? I will be getting the Equalizer 10K, is there something else I should be telling my dealer to request this? Again I apologize for my ignorance as this is my first trailer and towing experience with my new Jayco 27BHS.
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Old 03-07-2016, 08:33 PM   #20
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Do I need to request longer bars from my dealer? I will be getting the Equalizer 10K, is there something else I should be telling my dealer to request this? Again I apologize for my ignorance as this is my first trailer and towing experience with my new Jayco 27BHS.
I met the drop length on the shank when I was referring to "Bar", and no, the sway/spring bars should be a standard length.

Honestly, if I was you, if your dealer is a certified equalizer installer, they should be able to get the whole thing for you. I would call them and warn then that you have a Ram2500 and give them the height to the center of your draw bar receiver, they may well have to order the shank you found in your previous comment if they don't have it in stock. I would expect they would install it and get the trailer level, etc. You actually want them to, the torque requirements on those bolts is pretty high for hand tools unless you have a good impact wrench.

NOW, when you get it home, read the manual, or better yet, read the manual off the website first, learn how to install it yourself, and then watch them. My dealer did mine well EXCEPT he had the truck outside the service bay, and it had a slight incline down on the truck. The end result of that was when both vehicles where on a level surface, the trailer was nose down pretty bad. I ended up remeasuring it after my first few trips out and doing some adjustment. As long as both vehicles are on a relatively flat surface, and the dealer knows their stuff, you should be in pretty good shape.

Another tip, Don't forget to check all the components for both tongue weight and total tow weight tow ratings. Your truck receiver has a maximum, your equalizer head as well as the shank will have a maximum, AND the ball itself has a maximum. Your only as good as your weakest link. I saw a 2 5/8 inch ball with a 5000lb tow rating once. I really wonder what on earth only weights 5000lbs and requires that large a ball aside from a small empty trailer. Again, the installer should have this all in order for you.
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