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Old 05-19-2016, 09:30 AM   #61
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Originally Posted by borninblue View Post
I did not take the measurement yet with the WDH not engaged. Only engaged, and then not hooked up are the measurements I have.

Good tips on the bars, right now I have to raise the tongue a little but not much to engage the bars. I can place them up on the brackets by hand without the tool.

From where my fill point and low drain lines are it appears my tanks are at the same location as yours ( I also have 80 gallons). My waste tank is also at the very rear of the trailer. I am about to call to see about the size of the washers or if they can send me some. How many washers did you say you have installed?
Those really are the important measurements. Like goducks says, you want to get that front fender as close to where it was unloaded as you can. It doesn't sound like from your description you're getting enough tension on the bars.

I don't have the same hitch as you, so my number of washers is irrelevant. I'm running 6 though IIRC, FWIW. I'm running a Fastway E2 with round bars at this time. It's basically similar in many ways, but different enough that my washer count probably won't mean much for you.

If I had remembered, I would have measured my washers for you last night. I have a handful of them in my tool box at home. I think they're 1/2", but don't quote me to that, could be 5/8". Their website doesn't give any specs on them, they just call them "spacer washer"...
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:04 AM   #62
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Those really are the important measurements. Like goducks says, you want to get that front fender as close to where it was unloaded as you can. It doesn't sound like from your description you're getting enough tension on the bars.

I don't have the same hitch as you, so my number of washers is irrelevant. I'm running 6 though IIRC, FWIW. I'm running a Fastway E2 with round bars at this time. It's basically similar in many ways, but different enough that my washer count probably won't mean much for you.

If I had remembered, I would have measured my washers for you last night. I have a handful of them in my tool box at home. I think they're 1/2", but don't quote me to that, could be 5/8". Their website doesn't give any specs on them, they just call them "spacer washer"...
I was trying to find the deeper fastway hitch that is compatible with the equalizer that was mentioned earlier on this thread. Unfortunately it is listed as out of stock. I keep thinking my drop is not enough, but like you said I will not know for sure until measuring. I just don't see one or two washers cutting it. I found a CAT scale about 35min from my house. Once I get close that will be my next project.

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Old 05-19-2016, 10:12 AM   #63
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For anyone wondering the washers are 1/2 x 1.062". Very helpful customer support.

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Old 05-19-2016, 10:16 AM   #64
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Keep adding washers (hardened) until you can transfer enough weight. With your TW I'd jump right to 6 washers. I actually should've had 7 washer in mine but that puts too much tilt on the WDH that it makes it hard to get the coupler to release unless you're on totally flat ground.
Chance are you'll need to drop the tongue down a hole on the shank.
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Old 05-19-2016, 10:19 AM   #65
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Keep adding washers (hardened) until you can transfer enough weight. With your TW I'd jump right to 6 washers. I actually should've had 7 washer in mine but that puts too much tilt on the WDH that it makes it hard to get the coupler to release unless you're on totally flat ground.
Chance are you'll need to drop the tongue down a hole on the shank.
Thanks for the suggestion. I have no more holes to drop to. So more than likely new shank in my future.

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Old 05-19-2016, 10:39 AM   #66
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You'd be surprised what one or two washers will do. Think about the geometry of the situation. A small amount of tilt on the head (like one washer) causes the end of the spring bar to move an inch or more. With those bars, that's a lot of force; an inch is A LOT.

I'm still very interested in whether you're able to get enough drop out of that shank.
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:08 PM   #67
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I'm still very interested in whether you're able to get enough drop out of that shank.
For what it is worth, the shank I have (roughly 8" drop from the top potion that inserts into the hitch) works fine with my truck, and my truck is roughly 2" taller than a normal 2500. Also, I still have 1 hole showing at the bottom of my drop.
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:16 PM   #68
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You'd be surprised what one or two washers will do. Think about the geometry of the situation. A small amount of tilt on the head (like one washer) causes the end of the spring bar to move an inch or more. With those bars, that's a lot of force; an inch is A LOT.

I'm still very interested in whether you're able to get enough drop out of that shank.
I think I'm going to save some frustration and purchase a longer shank! Talked to dealer and he will allow me to pay difference. They will not have time to level it up with trailer. Should I tell them to start with 5 washers with the deeper shank?

Do you think this shank is compatible http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00718...6lL&ref=plSrch

Or any othet suggestions for shanks for my setup would be appreciated.
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Old 05-19-2016, 04:04 PM   #69
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I think I'm going to save some frustration and purchase a longer shank! Talked to dealer and he will allow me to pay difference. They will not have time to level it up with trailer. Should I tell them to start with 5 washers with the deeper shank?

Do you think this shank is compatible Robot Check

Or any othet suggestions for shanks for my setup would be appreciated.
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Take a look at this one

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

Thats the one I have, it fits the 2.5" receiver on the ram2500 well without the adapter, I am in the bottom mount and just a little nose down. My height to the top of the ball receiver on trailer when the trailer is level is about 22.25". IT IS NOTABLY HEAVIER! I noticed that right away. I just put it in the truck receiver when camping and leave it, have a locking pin on it.
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:06 PM   #70
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Take a look at this one

https://www.etrailer.com/Accessories...0-02-4900.html

Thats the one I have, it fits the 2.5" receiver on the ram2500 well without the adapter, I am in the bottom mount and just a little nose down. My height to the top of the ball receiver on trailer when the trailer is level is about 22.25". IT IS NOTABLY HEAVIER! I noticed that right away. I just put it in the truck receiver when camping and leave it, have a locking pin on it.
Order placed, check your PM's when you get a chance.
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:22 PM   #71
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I must be looking at something wrong here. I measured my current shank from the hitch to the bottom and it is 7". The equalizer shank has more holes, but is labeled as a 6" drop. Am I only supposed to measure drop to the lowest hole to determine shank drop?

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Old 05-20-2016, 08:34 AM   #72
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Shank drop is a tricky thing. Some manufacturers measure it from the center of the receiver to the top of a standard ball (on their brand of hitch). Some measure from middle of receiver to top of ball MOUNT, some from top of receiver to top of ball mount. It's all over the place.

When I've been shopping, I've been looking for the actual measurements as opposed to what they call "drop". I've played with the calculator on Equal-i-zer's website and tried to determine from there if another (read "cheaper") shank will work. Curt makes a bunch of them in different sizes for example.

My primary issue is that I want it longer from the pin. I'd like to be able to drop my tail gate with the trailer coupled. I tried to rotate my jack, and that didn't work. Since I'm getting a new hitch anyway and will likely need a deeper drop shank, I figure I may as well get EXACTLY what I want. We shall see; I haven't even decided which hitch I'm going to get, but that's another thread...
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Old 05-20-2016, 08:06 PM   #73
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Tailgate wont open with the shank I got, its very close, and I haven't tried rotating the jack head.

The shank I referenced above is definitely longer than the stock, between 11 and 12 inches long. It appeared a little longer than the curt ones I was finding, overall I am happy with it being a 2.5" receiver shank and the height is perfect for the trailer. Tailgate would be icing on the cake

Here are a few photos, including a size comparison to the factory unit, its definitely longer



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Old 05-21-2016, 02:23 AM   #74
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Tailgate wont open with the shank I got, its very close, and I haven't tried rotating the jack head.

The shank I referenced above is definitely longer than the stock, between 11 and 12 inches long. It appeared a little longer than the curt ones I was finding, overall I am happy with it being a 2.5" receiver shank and the height is perfect for the trailer. Tailgate would be icing on the cake

Here are a few photos, including a size comparison to the factory unit, its definitely longer



Thank you for the pictures! How many washers do you have in there?

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Old 05-23-2016, 07:54 AM   #75
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Based on the relationship between the ball and the shank where it goes into the receiver, I think if I end up with the Equalizer, that's the shank I will end up with. That ball height looks just about perfect for my setup based on those pics. Thanks for sharing them!

My current shank ALMOST allows my tailgate to clear the jack head. I could probably do it with one more inch. So I bet that shank might actually allow me to clear the jack head? If not, it's not a show stopper, but man it sure would be nice!
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Old 06-01-2016, 07:39 PM   #76
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Got the new shank, high quality. Definitely tows better. The noise from the equalizer hitch is now RIDICULOUSLY LOUD! To the point where everyone jerks their head when I drive by. Turning going over bumps, going down or up inclines. I lubed it up and have the equalizer "jackets" installed. I also added a washer to the hitch, so six total. I'm assuming the brackets for the bars need to be moved down since I made no adjustments for them after the hitch was lowered?

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Old 06-01-2016, 08:00 PM   #77
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Got the new shank, high quality. Definitely tows better. The noise from the equalizer hitch is now RIDICULOUSLY LOUD! To the point where everyone jerks their head when I drive by. Turning going over bumps, going down or up inclines. I lubed it up and have the equalizer "jackets" installed. I also added a washer to the hitch, so six total. I'm assuming the brackets for the bars need to be moved down since I made no adjustments for them after the hitch was lowered?

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In my experience, it's not a quiet hitch towing around the campground, I am wondering if now that you have more proper weight on the bars if what your seeing is normal. It was MUCH louder on my ford with 5 washers (bars were tighter) than my Ram. Ford was also returning most of the weight to the front Axle, which I believe is normal due to the bars being tighter. I need more weight returned on the ram indicating I need 6 washers. The wheel well measurement also isn't returning 1/2 the distance as indicated in the manual.

Go get your weights is my advice, see what your dealing with. If your front axle weighs more with the trailer attached than the truck without the trailer, they are definitely too tight and you need to pull a washer or adjust the brackets.

Lowering the hitch head shouldn't impact the placement of the brackets on the trailer I wouldn't think, assuming the dealer installed it in the default locations, the bars should sit pretty visibly level on the brackets. Effectively when you lowered the hitch head, you also lowered the receivers for the weight bars, they should be the same in relation to the brackets mounted on your tongue. Do you have 2 holes above the top bolt and 2 holes below the bottom bolt on your brackets now? That is the default position I believe.
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Old 06-01-2016, 08:08 PM   #78
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One more thing, do a quick google search on "equalizer hitch loud", you will find several other forums discussing this. I too looked into it when I first had it, came to the conclusion yes, its a little loud at slow speeds and tight turns and is supposed to be.
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Old 06-01-2016, 09:30 PM   #79
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Got the new shank, high quality. Definitely tows better. The noise from the equalizer hitch is now RIDICULOUSLY LOUD! To the point where everyone jerks their head when I drive by. Turning going over bumps, going down or up inclines. I lubed it up and have the equalizer "jackets" installed. I also added a washer to the hitch, so six total. I'm assuming the brackets for the bars need to be moved down since I made no adjustments for them after the hitch was lowered?

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If you lowered the hitch on the truck, you should lower the brackets on the trailer the same amount (assuming they were level before). If you didnt, it is essentially transferring much more weight to the front axle than it originally was before.
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Old 06-02-2016, 09:55 AM   #80
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This is the current t setting on the bars.

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